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Tuesday 30 October 2012

Quinta de Cottas Grande Reserva 2010

16.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta de Cottas
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal














I tasted the reserva 2009 a couple of months ago and really liked it, being one of those very dry whites from the Douro that, for my taste, really develop when staged in oak for some months. I'm not sure if this Grande Reserva is a rebranding or a new top brand, but I liked this one even more, I must say, although they seemed to cut down on the dryness for this vintage.



Greenish tinged, the nose is very complex, penetrating and intense. Strong vegetable notes at first - aspargus, mainly - open up way to a sweeter, vanilla-like scent along with dried almonds, the new oak barrels where this staged having left its mark. Still later on, some white fruit and flowers join the party and make for a very enticing bouquet.



The fresh acidity is a worthwhile match for the heavier, sweeter streak brought on by the oak. On the whole, the wine feels very structured and complex in the palate, the oakier notes making it mouth filling while maintaining a good fresh vibe. I think it just lacks maybe a little more elegance to make it ascend to the next level.



Really good, long finish.





Sunday 28 October 2012

Offley Late Bottled Vintage 1997

16.5 / 20
Producer: Offley
Region: Porto
Country: Portugal




This one looks a lot younger than its 15 years. Starting by the color, a really dark purple, and carrying on to the nose, where a lot of black berries are still very present, along with a slight more chemical paper feel and the usual dried plums, raisins and a hint of spices. Very intense and vibrant bouquet.

Good intensity on the palate as well, its good structure showing some distinct layers where sweet black fruits mix with sweeter notes, a touch of syrup but still brought together by a nice lingering acidity. Good, strong and lengthy ending.

A notch up from the 200 LBV I tasted a year or so from the same brand and another piece of evidence in favour of older LBVs.


Saturday 27 October 2012

Montado 2010

14.5 / 20
Producer: José Maria da Fonseca
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal



Clear ruby in the glass, the nose is composed mainly by red fruits and a light cellar/winery scent.



Feels very soft in the palate, with a decent amount of red fruits. Lightly structured, the balanced acidity and light tannins clearly say this is a wine made to be enjoyed young. On first taste, the ending brought out some marked alcohol notes but these are hardly noticeable when paired with food.



One for the everyday meal.





Tuesday 23 October 2012

Lion's Land Shiraz Pinotage 2008

15.0 / 20
Producer: Lion's Land
Region: Swartland
Country: South Africa







Clear garnet, this is a blend of Shiraz and Pinotage, pinotage being South Africa's signature variety. Apparently, it's a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut. I believe this was the first time I tasted a Pinotage wine and I definitely see the link to Pinot Noir, both in the light color of the wine and in some earthy/smoky scents and flavors that I usually associate with Pinot Noir.


The bouquet brings some dried plums and jam, a bit monotone at first. It becomes a little more interesting as it opens, revealing the afore mentioned earth/smoke notes as well as a spicier, peppery side.


The first taste reveals a light body and a good deal of acidity. Surprisingly, I felt a lot more red fruits here than in the nose. As with the nose, as it opens the palate becomes more revealing and the dried plums and jam in the nose also appear here. Lightly structured and with balanced tannins, both the acidity and the spicier, peppery notes give it some interest. Medium length finish wraps up the taste.



Tasted on 2012-10-20

Quinta do Boição Arinto Reserva 2010

16.0 / 20
Producer: Enoport
Region: Bucelas
Country: Portugal







100% Arinto from Bucelas, this has a nice straw color and a fine bouquet, where notes of ripe citrus fruit mingle with smokier notes, a hint of mineral - rubbery notes like in a Riesling - and, as it warms up, a scent of oak pops up, reminding us this has fermented in oak for

some time.


Dry impact in the mouth, the mineral notes to the foreground along with lemon and lime. In the background, a touch of hazelnuts and a creamier, heavier texture give it some grace and weight.


Feels very fresh but, at the same time, it also shows some weight and structure, which gives it an added interest. Finish is long and dry, the citrus notes again mixed with hazelnuts.


Very interesting and with a good quality/price ratio.



Tasted on 2012-10-18

Bétula 2011

16.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Torgal
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal







An equal blend of Sauvignon and Viognier, this white from the Douro has a nice greenish tinge to it and a very delicate, smooth and elegant bouquet where slight tropical fruit notes mingle with sharper citrus impression, orange blossoms and, as it breathes and opens, smooth vegetable notes.


Very smooth in the palate as well, homogeneous and showing a good structure. Some notes of passion fruit appear, along with more herbaceous impressions and a strong mineral backbone. Feeling a bit closed at first, it shows a clear crescendo of intensity as time goes by. Ends very well, dry and with the citrus notes coming to the foreground.


Comparing it with the previous vintages, I think there's a marked evolution towards a more austere approach. Both the oak notes and the tropical fruits were more present in the previous vintages, whereas this one seems to rely even more on the mineral/citrus side. Although I still miss the splendid acidity the 2009 had.



Tasted on 2012-10-14

Cigalus 2009

17.0 / 20
Producer: Gérard Bertrand
Region: Pays d'Oc
Country: France







Really dark and concentrated in the glass, this shows some ripe dark fruits in the nose, delicate at first, but quickly growing and expanding, showing a spicier side and, as it breathes, a note of grass and mint that really composes the set.


Intense and full bodied in the palate, showing a vibrant acidity and marked by a good deal of concentrated black fruits. Velvety tannins help give it even more structure and layers, while the vanilla and oaky notes give it a very deep and composed feel. The subtle spices and vegetable notes present throughout the taste give it an added edge and grace, resulting in a really interesting wine that will age for some more years.



Tasted on 2012-10-11

Grand Terroirs Tautavel 2008

16.5 / 20
Producer: Gérard Bertrand
Region: Cotes du Roussillon
Country: France







Very dark to the eye, this Grenache/Syrah/Carignan blend is an enticing, deep and elegant red with the nose very focused on sweet black fruits - blackberries and blackcurrants - and showing caramel and coffee, pepper and a hint of liquorice.


Intense in the palate, with strong black fruit notes expertly mixed with the oak, it comes along as a very balanced wine, with acidity, tannins, fruit and oak all balancing out and creating a really good red.



Tasted on 2012-10-08

Quinta do Cardo Reserva Touriga Nacional 2008

15.5 / 20
Producer: Companhia das Quintas
Region: Beira Interior
Country: Portugal







Dark purple in the glass, this Touriga from the Beira Interior (near Figueira do Castelo Rodrigo) feels very closed both in the nose and in the palate. The bouquet reveals a hint of violets, a touch of intense, concentrated red fruits and a slight impression of mint and assorted plants. At first, a slightly unpleasant animal scent also appears but this clears after a minute or so. It takes a couple of hours for the bouquet

to gain focus and reveal the stronger violet, flowery notes usually associated with Touriga Nacional.


The same closed feeling appears in the palate. The tannins feel very hard and, coupled with a good, fresh acidity, they overshadow the intense red fruit and flowers that can be felt in the background. At this point in time, the medium structure of the wine seems unable to harness both the tannins and the acidity. As it opens and breathes, it mellows and a pleasant sense of flowers comes forward and helps the wine gain a lot.


Definitely one to keep in the cellar for some more years.


Tasted on 2012-09-21

Monday 22 October 2012

Aldeias de Juromenha Reserva Syrah 2008

16.0 / 20
Producer: Herdade das Aldeias
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







Open ruby, the nose is all about berries, blackberries and raspberries, at times coming into the jammy side, but keeping things controlled and balanced. A background of spices/oak keeps it interesting and inviting.


Round, inviting taste with a nicely tuned, average structured body with smooth, velvety tannins and a balanced acidity. Lots of blacberries in the palate again, showcasing the warmth of the Alentejo, it finishes smooth and long.



Tasted on 2012-09-19

Marquês dos Vales Grace Vineyard 2009

15.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta dos Vales
Region: Algarve
Country: Portugal







Coming from the Algarve, made with Siria, Malvasia Fina and Arinto, it shows a nice deep yellow color, almost golden.


Intense and open in the nose, with flowery notes and sweet white fruit - lots of apricots and peaches. There's also a sense of minerality here, nicely balancing the sweetness of the fruit.


Surprisingly, it feels very dry in the mouth, with lots of lemon and lime notes, with the corresponding fresh acidity. This dryness nicely cuts through the sweetness of the white fruits, also present in the body. Dry and filled with citrus notes, the ending is medium long, effectively cleaning the palate.


Really good by itself, it lost a bit of focus when matched with a light salmon dish, so I would recommend this by itself.


Tasted on 2012-09-17

CARMIM Alicante Bouschet 2009

15.5 / 20
Producer: CARMIM
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







Dark ruby, showing meaty and ripe, almost jammy red fruit along with a hint of olives in the well balanced bouquet, supported by nice oaky notes.


In the palate, the vegetable/olive notes come up again, mingled with just the right amount of fruit and a touch of oak. Round, balanced and ready to drink, it has a medium length and finishes with notes of mulberries and jam.


Tasted on 2012-09-13

Quinta do Portal Vintage 1999

16.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Portal
Region: Porto
Country: Portugal







Good, dark ruby color when poured in the glass, the nose is filled with spices, raisins and dried plums and apricots. Also present in the background are cocoa and coffe and, at times, some ripe red berries also come up.


Its 13 years have erased most of the rough edges, the wine feeling very round in the palate, the tannins very integrated into the set, just present enough to give it some bite, and the ripe red fruits not overpowering the other components of the wine. Nevertheless, a full bodied wine, still very imposing where dried fruits and spices mingle with the ripe red fruit to create a good taste. Finish is quite long.


Feels ready to drink and enjoy right now - at its price, a really enjoyable Vintage.



Tasted on 2012-09-09

Symmetria Best 2006

16.5 / 20
Producer: Paulo Laureano
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







Deeply purple to the eye, the nose on this Alentejo is intense, showing lots of ripe red fruits, some dried plums and raisins and a nice touch of oaky notes.


Good structure on the palate, again showing in first impact some dried fruits that later open to some red fruit. This is matched by cocoa and toast notes from the oak and a good, refreshing acidity.


Lively, very present tannins provide this with an added structure and give it a good presence in the palate, finishing long.



Tasted on 2012-09-04

Reguengos Garrafeira dos Sócios 2004

16.5 / 20
Producer: CARMIM
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







A classic Alentejo, this is the top brand from CARMIM, in Reguengos de Monsaraz. Lively garnet in the glass, the nose is really inviting with a lot of spices, some oak notes in the shape of cocoa and some vanilla and a decent amount of dried plums and raisins that hint at its age but are extremely enjoyable.


Very balanced, almost delicate in the glass at first, although it still manages to show a good deal of complexity in a body that is very marked by spices and dried plums and raisins. Some ripe red fruits also appear in the background. Remarkable for its balance and elegance, this is a very gastronomical wine that will pair with a lot of different dishes. Long, composed finish again highlights the wine's balance

and elegance.


Paired very well with a roast rabbit, the smoothness and delicacy of the meat flavor matching the elegance of the wine step by step.

Tasted on 2012-09-03

Aldeias da Juromenha Reserva 2007

16.0 / 20
Producer: Herdade das Aldeias
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







From near Elvas, in the Alto Alentejo, this ruby-colored reserva has a distinctive Alentejo bouquet, warm and fruit-forward, with nice red fruit notes with a clear acid side along wih oak.


Very inviting in the palate, rounded and with a nice balance between fruit and oak, it shows some quality red fruit, with just the right amount of acidity. Also present is a more vegetable, grassy side - probably from the Cabernet Sauvignon present in the blend, although it is not apparent in the nose. Good, present tannins that mold the wine without imposing themselves on the taste, this has a good, lengthy finale marked by plum notes.


A definite classical Alentejo, very inviting and food-friendly .


Tasted on 2012-09-02

Scala Dei Prior 2007

17.0 / 20
Producer: Cellers de Scala Dei
Region: Priorat
Country: Spain







Deep, dark purple to the eye, this red from the Priorat has an intense, warm nose, at first centered on exotic woods and spices and then revealing a strong ripe black fruit backbone.


Full-bodied, intense and structured as usual with the reds from the Priorat, it shows some hard tannins and a fresh acidity that keeps it from being too heavy. Lots of caramel and cocoa notes in the palate, more present than the fruit notes, although there are some juicy dark plums in the intense, long and hot ending.


A really intense wine that will probably age well for a couple more years.


Tasted on 2012-09-01

GP Medieval de Ourém 2011

15.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta do montalto
Region: Encostas de Aire
Country: Portugal







This is a peculiar wine from Ourém, near Lisbon, made following the procedures set by the monks of Cister centuries ago. This means that white (80%) and red (20%) grapes are mixed during the winemaking process - being first harvested and treated separately - and that the red grapes spend very little time in contact with their skins, resulting in a lightly colored, fruit-forward wine. Keeping up with the age-old tradition, this wine is fully bio wine.


Apart from all the inherent tradition and winemaking process, this is actually a very pleasant wine, very light in color, but with great red fruit (strawberries come to mind a lot) and some spices notes in the nose.


Soft in the palate, very fresh and fruit-forward, it's backed by a great acidity and verve. Marked by red fruit notes all the way throughout the taste, it has a surprisingly long persistence for its body. The only downside would be that at times it feels a bit unidimensional.


Made to be enjoyed young, it's definitely worth the experience and its acidity makes it a good pairing for traditional dishes, based on olive oil.


Tasted on 2012-08-30

Arenae 2008

16.0 / 20
Producer: Adega Regional de Colares
Region: Colares
Country: Portugal







Like the reds from Colares, the white wines from this region are out of the ordinary experiences. There is a definite sense of old world in these wines, maybe caused by the terroir, maybe because of the way the vines are planted deep in sand. Anyway, both red and whites are wines made to be enjoyed some years after the vintage and are pretty much guaranteed to hold up those years.


This white has a beautiful golden color and, although the nose has lost the tropical fruit notes usual in Malvasia, it has started to gain an ejoyable smoky, toasty feel, along with dried almonds, a hint of boiled apples and, to the background, a distinct mineral, rubbery impression. Very interesting and composed, leaving out any kind of excessive fruit.



Soft and light in the palate, it stands its own ground, however, supported by some really interesting grapefruit notes that give it some bitterness and a strong mineral side, that sometimes veers into salty territory - Colares is by the atlantic seaside. Very well balanced, with everything in its place, the ending is medium-length and brings out some more refreshing bitter notes.


Definitely not your average white and a worthy experience.


Tasted on 2012-08-28

Bacalhôa Moscatel Roxo 2000

17.0 / 20
Producer: Bacalhôa
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal







From one of the major wine producers in Setúbal (and Portugal, I guess), this Moscatel Roxo is a great example of these fortified wines. Light amber, the nose is intense and rich but never being excessive. I was reminded of an aged Madeira on first impact, with the same crystalized lemon rind, exotic woods, dried fruits and smoky feel. Later on, there are also a good deal of more flowery notes (orange blossom) popping up.


In the palate, this shows a masterful balance between the sweetness brought by the more honeyed notes and the acidity that is brought by the crystalized lemon and orange rind. Structured and full-bodied as expected, but able to keep the taste lively and fresh, finishing in a lengthy fashion.


Tasted on 2012-08-25

Quinta dos Quatro Ventos 2008

16.0 / 20
Producer: Aliança
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal







2008 was a very good year in the Douro, producing elegant and hopefully long lived wines, contrasting with the more powerful - but also excellent - 2007. This wine is a good example of the premium wines (around 10€) from that year. Deep extracted garnet, the nose is very balanced and composed, bringing to mind shale, wild bushes, ripe, strong wild red fruits and a touch of oak and toast.


A bit more fruit-forward in the mouth, the wild red and black fruits coming to the foreground, it is a balanced, nicely built wine with a good, fresh acidity and balanced but present tannins. Overall, a sense of balance and elegance permeates the taste all the way to the nice, lengthy finale that leaves discreet cocoa notes in the palate.


Tasted on 2012-08-23

Côtto Grande Escolha 2001

15.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Cotto
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal







Sporting a clear, lively garnet color, this 11 year old red from the Douro shows some nice aromas, still showing some red fruit jam and dried fruits along with the more usual old wine aromas - old cupboards, the

inside of cigar boxes and dried leaves.


Light body on the palate, with marked tertiary notes, it still show some life - good acidity, for instance - but it fails to live up to the expectations set by the bouquet. While the bouquet hints at some complexity and delicacy, the taste merely reveals a nice older wine, certainly fit enough to be enjoyed, but not showing the complexity and balance I was expecting.


Although it fared better than the 2000 I tasted a couple of months ago, I was expecting more from this.



Tasted on 2012-08-21

Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2009

15.5 / 20
Producer: Thomas Haag
Region: Mosel
Country: Germany







Showing a pale yellow color and some bubbles - that are not at all perceptible on the palate later on -

this Riesling from the Mosel has a bouquet clearly dominated by mineral notes, sometimes recalling sulphur - not to the point of being unpleasant, but the rotten eggs impression is definitely there - other times going into the more familiar rubbery territory. On the background, some slight tropical, sweet notes also appear.


Soft and light in the palate, with a slight sweetness compensated by a crisp, fresh acidity, the body is also very marked by a strong, pleasant minerality with some tropical fruits resulting in a palate cleansing, pleasurable wine. Good, strong and pleasant finish.



Tasted on 2012-08-19

Quinta dos Carvalhais Alfrocheiro 2006

16.5 / 20
Producer: Sogrape
Region: Dão
Country: Portugal







Beautifully colored, sporting a dark red, almost purple tone, the bouquet has a nice intensity, with some flowers, a hint of mint and some strong dark fruit (raspberries and plums) notes. Beneath, a background of cocoa and other oaky notes enhances the ensemble.


Feeling delicate and balanced on the palate, still with a really good acidity and with nicely tuned and integrated tannins that help give it structure and layers. It's not a full bodied wine but it manages to mark the taste, with some good notes of dark fruits and some jam. Long, persistent finish that lingers for a long time.


Tasted on 2012-08-17

Reserva ACR 2009

15.5 / 20
Producer: Adega Cooperativa do Redondo
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







Not very expressive on the nose, this reserve from Adega Cooperativa do Redondo shows some red wild fruits along with some oak and spices notes.


In the palate, it feels fulll bodied, showing a tannic structure, fresh acidity and some marked oak notes. Tasting it by itself, it comes along as a really young wine, needing some bottle time to mellow and mature. It feels more balanced when matched with food, with some nice wild red fruits bubbling up to the foreground while the tannins and the acidity are kept in check by the food - assuming you taste this with an heavy, meat based dish.


Nice persistence that gives up some more fruit notes. Overall, this felt like it needed at least a couple of years in the bottle before being properly appreciated.



Tasted on 2012-08-16

Monsaraz Millennium 2011

15.0 / 20
Producer: CARMIM
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







Predominantly citrus scented at first, there are also some sweet tropical fruits joining the bouquet later.


Soft in the palate, very balanced and easy to drink, it also shows some light citrus notes along with sweet, meaty fruits. Average length on the ending, this would be a good choice to drink by itself by the pool or beach.


Tasted on 2012-08-15

ACR Touriga Nacional 2006

15.0 / 20
Producer: Adega Cooperativa do Redondo
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







Another varietal from Adega Cooperativa do Redondo, this Touriga Nacional has a nice open ruby color and a pleasant nose where ripe red fruit mingle with some oaky notes and, later on, some faint flowery notes also appear.


Also pleasant in the palate, with nice, ripe raspberries, a nice dryness and a balanced acidity, this is a balanced, honest wine, although it feels somewhat tired sometimes. Good average Persistence with notes of red fruits again, but where the usual flowery notes from the Touriga are absent.


Tasted on 2012-08-13

José de Sousa 2007

15.5 / 20
Producer: José Maria da Fonseca
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







Tasted in a half-bottle, this red from Reguengos de Monsaraz has the distinctive feature of having been partially aged in some huge clay vases.


Pleasantly ruby to the eye, the nose has some nice wild red berries going, along with a more harder to pin down note - something more vegetable, mint-like.


Nice, average bodied in the palate, with really lively, dry tannins. These tannins, along with a fresh acidity give this a nervy, edgy feel that is very refreshing. Good red wild berries on the palate as well, the fruit being more on the acid side than on the sweeter, the end is average length.


A very gastronomic wine and a wine that will probably age well.



Tasted on 2012-08-11

ACR Syrah 2006

15.5 / 20
Producer: Adega Cooperativa do Redondo
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







Clear garnet in the glass, this Syrah starts with a not very enthusiastic bouquet, showing some sweet raspberries and jam, along with a hint of evolution. As it opens, there's a light mint note in there as well.


First impact on the mouth is much more rewarding, with the wine showing a good intensity, soft and polished but still showing a good deal of acidity and a very interesting raspberry and mulberry feel that fills the palate without being too heavy.


Very balanced and sharp all the way to the medium-length finish that shows lots of red berries.


Nicely polished and in a really good drinking window, this was a really nice surprise and a very worthwhile Alentejo Syrah.



Tasted on 2012-08-10

Cottas Reserva 2009

16.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta de Cottas
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal







A blend of typical white Douro grapes, this is a great example of a really good Douro wine, balancing freshness and zest with structure and oak. Light green to the eye, the nose has some smoke, an oaky, almond-like feel and some citrus note. Also present is a mineral, sharp feel that enhances the bouquet.


Feels very dry and fresh on the palate, while at the same time relaying some sense of structure and weight. Elegant and balanced, the almond/oak is very well integrated with the citrus notes, present but not overlapping the acidity and dryness. Really strong ending, with more citrus notes popping up, it comes along as a sharp, expertly made white that will probably age very well.


Tasted on 2012-08-09

Parus 2010

15.5 / 20
Producer: Herdade da Comporta
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal







100% Antão Vaz coming from Herdade da Comporta, this straw-yellow white has a nose dominated by apricots and peaches at first, that are later replaced by some sweeter, more expressive tropical fruits.


Soft in the palate, with a balanced acidity and a fruit-forward approach, with white and tropical fruits to the foreground, along with a background drier citrus feel. Feeling restrained at first, some time in the glass seem to do it good, becoming more open and expressive. Good, lengthy finale that is perhaps too marked by alcohol. At 14%, sometimes the alcohol comes a bit too much to the foreground.



Tasted on 2012-08-08

Quinta do Castelinho Late Bottled Vintage 1994

15.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Castelinho
Region: Porto
Country: Portugal







An older late bottled vintage, this Quinta do Castelinho was made in an excellent year for Port. 1994 was probably the best year for Port Vintage in the last decade of the twentieth century. The color on this LBV showed some signs of age, being a bricky red/orange veering into light brown.


Very old Port on the nose, sweet, yellow sugar, some spices, dried plums and raisins. Correct and pleasant, if not very exciting.


Feels very light and round in the palate, with lots of yellow sugar and honey notes. Although it feels like it has starting to go downhill, it has a good, inviting presence with dried plums and rasins appearing in an ending that still manages to show some life.


I would not wait anymore to start drinking this one.



Tasted on 2012-08-07

Sunday 21 October 2012

Venâncio da Costa Lima Reserva 2009

16.0 / 20
Producer: Venâncio da Costa Lima
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal







Yet another good example of a 100% Castelão from Setúbal, This reserve from one of the oldest companies in the region presents itself in a nice, dark ruby color and a very typical Castelão nose, mainly dark fruits, meaty and sweet, sometimes going into jam territory but never going overboard. To the background, a touch of oak and vanilla composes the bouquet.


Fruit forward in the palate, in the usual Castelão way with lots of dark plums, this is an average bodied wine with well balanced acidity and some nice, dry and still powerful tannins.


Good, pleasant presence in a really typical example of the Castelão from this area. Finishes decently long bringing out an oaky, cocoa aftertaste.



Tasted on 2012-08-06

Artefacto Colheita Seleccionada Syrah 2010

16.0 / 20
Producer: Luís Duarte
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







A 100% Syrah from the Alentejo, this dark purple red has a good bouquet where red cherries and plums mix with strawberry jam in a subtle oak background.


Medium-bodied in the palate, it shows a fresh acidity. While round and inviting, it also shows a distinctive dryness brought by some top-notch quality tannins. The right amount of red fruits and jam mix with just the right amount of cocoa and vanilla from the oak, resulting in a very balanced wine. Good, dry finish that also brings out some jam notes.


Its acidity and dry tannins make this a very gastronomical wine, that will go well with regional meat based dishes. It can definitely wait another year in the bottle or give it an hour or so in the decanter before enjoying.


Tasted on 2012-08-05

Vinha Val dos Alhos 2010

15.0 / 20
Producer: Casa Agrícola Horácio Simões
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal







A 100% Sémillon, this white wine from near Setúbal has a balanced, somewhat subdued bouquet where flowers mingle with white fruits along with a scent of lemon.


Shows a good structure on the palate, but the most remarkable sensation in the palate is its dryness which, combined with a fresh acidity, brings out the citrus, lemon-like notes. Some notes of white fruit and a touch of oak also appear in the background all the way to the medium-length, very dry finale.


Tasted on 2012-07-21

Quinta do Pinto Limited Edition 2010

16.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Pinto
Region: Lisboa
Country: Portugal







A Côtes du Rhône style blend with Roussanne and Viognier, this white from near Alenquer has a nice light straw color and an intense, strong bouquet with lots of apricots, peaches and yellow plums. There's also a touch of flowers more to the background.


Voluminous and structured on the palate, it has a really good presence, with the white fruits very well balanced with a creamy feel and a balanced, solid acidity that gives it life. A good deal of dryness also helps offset the creamy feel, making this a very balanced, winter-like white that will go well with stronger dishes.


Tasted on 2012-07-15

Aveleda Alvarinho 2011

15.5 / 20
Producer: Aveleda
Region: Minho
Country: Portugal







Really lightly colored, almost fully transparent with some green tinges, this Alvarinho has a nicely fresh and intense bouquet, mixing flowery notes - orange blossom - with some tropical fruits - grapefruits and passionfruit.


Light in the palate, although showing some presence, this has a nice fresh feel to it, dry and showing a nicely tuned citrus feel that cleans and refreshes the palate, while showing sweeter tropical fruit. Good, average length finale that enhances even further the citrus, dry approach.


Good Vinho Verde and quite a bargain for its current price.


Tasted on 2012-07-14

FSF 2001

17.0 / 20
Producer: José Maria da Fonseca
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal







Lovely lively garnet color on this red from Setúbal, the nose is very intense, with notes of vanilla and other spices, some red berries jam and, after some time, a touch of leather hinting at its age.


On first impact on the mouth, it shows its age, dominated by pleasant leathery notes along with strong vanilla and cocoa flavors. As it opens, some red fruit also appears in a very composed, balanced body that still shows a good deal of acidity and some very nicely tuned tannins. Very long persistence leaving notes of red fruit jam and cocoa all over the palate.


I tasted the 2004 a year or so ago and felt the wine still had a lot to offer. I think the 2001 confirms that. It's in a great drinking window and It will definitely hold for a couple of years more.


Tasted on 2012-07-12

Moscatel Reserva Venâncio Costa Lima 2007

15.5 / 20
Producer: Venâncio da Costa Lima
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal







Lightly colored, a clear amber, this Moscatel from Setúbal has a nice, simple bouquet with dried figs and raisins making up for most of it, although there's a slight medicinal note on the background.


As expected, sweet on the palate, with a lot of honeyed notes, this is not a very heavy, structured Moscatel. Average body and a nice, inviting presence makes it an approachable, easy drinking sweet wine. Has a very nice, long ending.


Tasted on 2012-07-11

Basília Colheita 2011

15.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta da Basília
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal







A very fresh white from the Douro, this has a very tropical bouquet, with lots of passion fruits, but it also shows a greener, more acid, citrus side to it.


Fresh and soft in the palate, starting in a sweeter tropical note but changing halfway to a drier, more acid approach, reminding me of grapefruits. Very refreshing, finishes dry and showing a very good length in a citrus dominated finish.


Tasted on 2012-07-08

Quinta dos Malvedos Vintage 1999

17.0 / 20
Producer: Graham's
Region: Porto
Country: Portugal







In the years when there is no general Vintage declaration and the classical vintages are not bottled, single quinta vintages are usually produced - at least recently. More easily approachable in their youth than the classical vintages, these usually offer great value for a lower price than their classical cousins - and sometimes they're every bit as good as them (I'm thinking Quinta do Vesúvio right now).


This port is the single quinta from Graham's. The grapes used for this wine are usually the backbone of the great Graham's vintages. I had the opportunity to taste this wine a year and a half ago in a wine fair in Oporto and was completely blown away by it - amazing aromas and flavors and an amazing depth and complexity.


This time, the wine felt more restrained and closed than before. Although allowed a good decanting time, it never seemed to get to that level of expressiveness that I remembered. Lots of plums in the nose, a touch of oak/smoke, some raisins. Feels very young and restrained, as if the full set of aromas are there but unable to break out.


Still impressively structured in the palate, with really velvet smooth tannins and a good acidity, it shows some meaty red plums - also some dried plums and raising give it some residual sweetness. Really good persistence.


I'd say that you should not drink this right now. It's probably going through a closed phase right now - not uncommon in vintage Port. Hold on to it for a couple of years more - it should be worth it.


Tasted on 2012-07-07

JP Private Selection 2009

14.5 / 20
Producer: Bacalhôa
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal







A 100% Castelão from Setúbal, this red from Bacalhôa has a not very expressive bouquet where notes of red fruits are a bit overshadowed by a strong smoky overtone at first, becoming somewhat more balanced afterwards. There's also a hint of vegetable notes - green bell peppers - that are unusual in Castelão.


It feels a bit rustic on the first impact on the palate, with the jammy red fruit coming forward, but sharing the front stage with some rustic cellar notes.

Lightly structured, tannins are still on the hard side which, together with the high acidity, might make the wine a little less inviting. Still, there's some nice red fruit in here, that make the average-length finale hold up.


Tasted on 2012-07-06

Roquette & Cazes 2008

17.0 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Crasto
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal







The 2008 vintage for the result of a Bordeaux-Douro joint venture, this keeps up the great work from previous vintages.


Dark purple in the glass, the nose is an outstanding Douro, pulpy wild berries, loads of flowers, spices in a background of oak and caramel. I was expecting this to be less intense than the 2007 but it's definitely on the same expressive, intense yet balanced level.


The palate follows suit, nicely structured and powerful yet elegant and balanced, with velvety tannins, the impressions of red fruits - raspberries - beautifully matched with the oak, a good level of acidity but all in an approachable, very drinkable package. Long imposing finale that leaves notes of those meaty raspberries lingering for a long time.


Great value for its price tag, and a very good Douro.


Tasted on 2012-07-05

Conde d'Ervideira Reserva 2010

16.0 / 20
Producer: Ervideira
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal







Lively garnet to the eye, the nose is very Alentejo, if a bit closed at first. Fleshy red fruit mixed with nicely balanced oak notes and some smoke make for an inviting and fresh bouquet.


Round, velvety and balanced in the mouth, it shows a medium structured body with quality red fruit mixed with a vanilla/oaky side and a good deal of acidity that, although it does not overpower the rest of the wine, it certainly provides a backbone and makes it a good match for much about any food. Very gastronomical and balanced, it's a classical Alentejo with a medium length, impositive, palate cleansing ending.


Tasted on 2012-07-03

Herdade da Comporta 2010

15.5 / 20
Producer: Herdade da Comporta
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal







Pale yellow to the eye, the nose on this white from near Alcácer do Sal is very tropical, but just with the right touch of sweetness to it, balanced with some citrus overtones.


Very refreshing in the mouth with good citrus-like acidity, it's a balanced, very composed white with just the right amount of tropical fruit in the palate to keep it inviting. Finish is medium long with lots of citrus notes, cleansing and refreshing.


Tasted on 2012-07-02

Herdade da Comporta 2008

15.5 / 20
Producer: Herdade da Comporta
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal







Dark ruby, this shows quite a closed profile on the nose when poured. Some red fruit, a hint of toast and vanilla, but all very much to the background. It gains momentum with time and those hints start to bloom into notes of red berries jam, nicely scented vanilla and also some darker, blue fruits.


Also very closed in the palate at first, it shows some sweet juicy red berries, nicely balanced with the oak notes. If at start the tannins seem to be too tamed, they actually build up as time goes on, finishing in an imposing fashion, although they never overpower the flavors. As a whole, elegant and balanced although it takes some time to fully reveal itself.



Tasted on 2012-06-28

Dona Mécia Reserva 2008

15.0 / 20
Producer: Divinis
Region: Lisboa
Country: Portugal







Clear ruby in the glass, this red from Ourém, near Fátima but still on the Lisbon DO, shows at first a bouquet where a slightly herbaceous, green feel is mixed with a leathery, rustic aroma. Given time, red fruit - in a jammy, although not overly heavy interpretation - appears and a nice touch of oak/toast that gives it some grace.


Average bodied in the mouth, it also benefits from some breathing time. Starting very tamed and showing the leathery, almost old wine notes it grows with time, red fruits and oak also start to appear in the palate along with the presence of velvety, very present tannins that give it some structure. Good acidity helps it move along to an average length, enjoyable finale.


Tasted on 2012-06-27

Pascal Jolivet Exception 2002

17.5 / 20
Producer: Pascal Jolivet
Region: Sancerre
Country: France







I approached this bottle with some caution... although I've really liked another white wine I had tasted from Pascal Jolivet, a 10-year old white Sancerre should not be in it's finest form, for sure. Reading the producer's site and seeing that this brand, Exception, would age well for 3-5 years did nothing to make me more comfortable.


Opened and poured, the light golden color was the first sign that not everything has lost - I was expecting to find a deeply golden colored wine. Still with some caution, I approached the glass to the nose: not bad, some signs of evolution with some glyceric notes, some nuts and almonds but clearly under control. A swirl or two and a beautiful, enticing and elegant bouquet started appearing - Very mineral and fresh, with lots of rubber and phosphorus with just a hint of sweet, boiled apples. My preconceptions were starting to shatter by now.


Tasting it with a lot more confidence, the body in this is superb. Fresh and showing an almost chalky, unbelievable acidity for its age - think Chablis, here - this is a totally mineral driven white, precise and balanced, filling the palate with some subtle lemony, dry notes and finishing in a dry, long way.


It definitely lost some of fruit and grassy feel that Sauvignon Blanc usually has when young, but it gained so much more. For me, a great example of how a white wine can age gracefully and develop unexpected but very welcome aromas and flavors.


Tasted on 2012-06-24

Ataíde Semedo Vio 2010

16.0 / 20
Producer: Ataíde Semedo
Region: Bairrada
Country: Portugal







Named Vio since Viognier is not an accepted grape type in the Bairrada wine region, this is a 100% Viognier coming from a renowned portuguese winemaker, credited until recently for one of the best reds from the Bairrada - Quinta da Dona.


Pale yellow in the glass, the nose is very expressive with lots of flowery notes, orange blossom, a nice spice background, everything seasoned with a fresher, citrus side reminiscent of limes.


Very interesting in the palate, showing a good structure and some complexity although it never loses a sense of freshness given by its acidity. Quite flowery in the palate as well, it shows itself as a very interesting, food-friendly wine with a really strong backbone. Finish is full and long, bringing out the more citrus, lime side.


Tasted on 2012-06-20

Côtto Grande Escolha 2000

15.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Cotto
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal







Light garnet with just the slightest hints of brown, this top brand from the Douro - made to last 15/25 years according to the producer - has an old wine bouquet, first with notes of dry leaves, old cupboards and leather, then slowly opening up and showing some jam, notes of cocoa and chocolate but mainly focusing on more tertiary, evolution based notes.


Soft bodied in the palate, relying again on tertiary notes, with cocoa/toast and some leather marking the taste, it still shows a balanced acidity and a nice grip. Well balanced and smooth, it finishes in a medium length style. Overall correct, but it somehow failed to live to its expectations.


Tasted on 2012-06-19