Muros de Melgaço Alvarinho 2011

17 / 20

Producer: Anselmo Mendes Vinhos

Region:Minho

Country:Portugal

Very subtle bouquet, with a strong mineral side, along with some lovely flowery impressions and a drop of an herbaceous, more vegetable note. In the nose, the overall feel is one of austerity and balance.

Impressive in the mouth, feeling very soft at first but quickly building up to a full, long and persistent wine. It's fresh but the acidity is very controlled, there are some more fruit notes than in the nose, but the main drive is the mineral, wet stones side. The oak has been masterfully used here, almost not apparent in the bouquet or in the flavors but giving a great deal of complexity to the wine.

Really good Alvarinho and a great buy at under 20€.

Luís Pato Vinha Formal 2008

17 / 20

Producer: Luís Pato

Region:Bairrada

Country:Portugal

100% Bical and staged 9 months in oak, this older white - 5 years - is a reminder that the Bairrada is a prime terroir for whites in Portugal.

The nose expresses the wine's age, with dried fruits appearing, along with a glyceric note. But given time, some sweet white fruit also appears and gives it some grace.

In the palate, the wine is a revelation. Although you can definitely tell it's an older white - although the evolution here is very positive - it comes along as imposing. Very structured and deep, austere and precise, the heavier glyceric notes are matched by an impressive dryness. The set results in a remarkable wine that will probably take on some more cellaring.

Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas 2011

17 / 20

Producer: Quinta do Soalheiro

Region:Minho

Country:Portugal

From one of the best - to my view - Alvarinho producers in Minho (and Portugal), this wine is made from the oldest vines in their farm and is a close match to their Reserva - maybe just lacks some of the aging potential the Reserva has, but still great value for the price.

Orange blossom and a slight tropical feel in the nose, complemented by a strong mineral background and some vegetable bitterness - extremely elegant and inviting.

Nicely structured in the palate, intense and long, it shows a very good acidity, with gentle tropical notes mingled with stronger citrus and mineral notes. Finishes very long with the citrus notes to the foreground. Really good balance between structure and freshness results in a very rewarding wine.

José de Sousa Mayor 2008

17 / 20

Producer: José Maria da Fonseca

Region: Alentejo

Country: Portugal

A blend containing 65% of Grand Noir (a bit unusual) from Reguengos de Monsaraz, this is a really good Alentejo red from one of the biggest wine making companies in Portugal. Jammy red and black fruits on the nose, with some oak and vanilla notes. There's also a scent of raisins and dried plums, hinting at a very gracious and poised evolution.

Beautifully balanced in the palate, still showing a lot of youth with a good deal of acidity and some tense, lively tannins. Wild red berries dominate the palate, elegantly mixed with toast notes. Takes a while to open up, but after 20 minutes or so in the glass, it reveals its full breadth, textured and complex.

Really good Alentejo.

Herdade do Esporão Syrah 2008

17 / 20

Producer: Herdade do Esporão

Region:Alentejo

Country:Portugal

Part of this year's reconciliation with Syrahs from Alentejo, supported by a great 2-week vacation there, this varietal from the Herdade do Esporão (great wine tourism spot and a lovey restaurant by the way) is a great example of what this grape type can offer in the Alentejo.

Strongly scented, intense and concentrated blackberries predominate in the nose, with oakier notes, some smoke and a hint of tobacco leaves.

Follows suit in the palate, showing a strong, full body where intense black fruit is balanced by an excelent acidity. The round and velvety tannins add complexity and layers to the wine's structure and presence, resulting in a very fulfilling, delightful taste that ends long and persistent - albeit the alcohol feel is maybe a bit too strong.

It's still a very young and powerful wine, so you can definitely wait for it a couple more years. If not, match with strongly flavored foods - went great with a pot-roast pheasant with apples.

Herdade do Peso Reserva 2004

17/ 20

Producer: Herdade do Peso - Sogrape

Region:Alentejo

Country:Portugal

A very elegant wine in the nose, showing nice jammy fruit notes, a minty/eucalyptus feel in the background and some discreet evolution notes, the slighest note of leather creeping up here and there, contributing to a very intriguing bouquet.

Very alive in the palate, with the typical Alentejo jammier fruit notes very well integrated with the oak backed by a still very fresh acidity. Structured but not heavy, velvety, round tannins permeate the taste that finishes long, elegant and very balanced.

It will still live for a couple of years at least, but right now it's an extremely pleasurable, rewarding wine.

Quinta do Escudial Garrafeira Vinhas Velhas 2006

17 / 20

Producer: Quinta do Escudial

Region:Dão

Country:Portugal

I was really surprised when I tasted this wine in a fair in Lisbon in November. A 6-year old unoaked red wine should taste a little tired, right? It should feel a bit old, maybe?

Well, this didn't. Starting by the color, a vibrant ruby and following up on the aromas, where notes of dried pine leaves mingled with some very alive red wild berries. Later on, the traditional flowery notes also appear in the form of buckroses.

In the palate, the first impact is of a fresh wine, showing some slight notes of leather at first and some alive, yet velvety tannins. It does not show much fruit at first, relying more on leather, a slight metalic feel, tobacco leaves, but as it opens, it reveals an outstanding red fruit and flowery profile that's truly amazing. Deep, long, very elegant and poised, it's a great wine by any standards. The fact that it has not staged in oak just pushes this into another level.

A great example of an old world wine.

Duorum Reserva Vinhas Velhas 2007

17 / 20

Producer: Duorum

Region: Douro

Country:Portugal

Pure Douro bouquet, a touch of silex, buckroses, a good deal of black fruits and a lot of oak and spices notes.

Great structure and still feeling quite fresh, the tannins are present, but tamed. At first, it reveals more notes of spices and oaks, but given time some very fresh red berries also appear in the palate. Deep, impositive finale.

Feels very round, surprisingly inviting since it is a Douro from one of its most potent vintages. Give it time, a couple of hours decanting will help it achieve its peak. I'm divided on if it is worth to cellar this anymore or if it is on its best drinking window.

Moscatel Superior 10 Anos Horácio Simões

17 / 20

Producer: Casa Horácio Simões

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Superior is a suffix guaranteeing the quality for this Moscatel from Setúbal (like Reserva on table wines). This 10 year old certainly deserves it, as it is a delightful and powerful Moscatel.

Sweet aromas, a bit of candles, english cake, exotic woods and dry figs compose an intense, powerful but elegant bouquet.

Shows its sweetness in the palate, but it's never excessive. There's a good acidity here, giving it some backbone and supporting the figs and the raisins that appear here. There appear to be some tannins lurking around as well - at least it feels like it i the gums.

Really long finish, very persistent with notes of crystalized orange skins. Still very young, this will age and last for years.

Conde de Vimioso Reserva 2007

17 / 20

Producer: Falua

Region:Tejo

Country:Portugal

A venture by João Portugal Ramos - very well known for his wines in Estremoz, Alentejo - in the Ribatejo, Falua produces Tejo wines mainly for the international market. This wine is, I think, the top brand of the house and it comes along as a serious, intense wine that will age well for some more years.

Dark garnet to the eye, the nose is very intense although not in a fruit-forward way. Instead, it starts off with some more mineral notes - a hint of shale, then some earthy, mushroom and dried leaves notes and finally opens up to caramel, toast mingled with black berries and plums.

Really good structure in the palate, with some great velvety yet hard tannins and a backbone of fresh acidity that lets the cocoa/chocolate and black fruit fully reveal themselves while keeping the whole set austere and deep. Very good structure without becoming too fat or heavy, this is a really good wine, finishing long with notes of cocoa and spices.

Cigalus 2009

17.0 / 20

Producer: Gérard Bertrand

Region: Pays d'Oc

Country: France

Really dark and concentrated in the glass, this shows some ripe dark fruits in the nose, delicate at first, but quickly growing and expanding, showing a spicier side and, as it breathes, a note of grass and mint that really composes the set.

Intense and full bodied in the palate, showing a vibrant acidity and marked by a good deal of concentrated black fruits. Velvety tannins help give it even more structure and layers, while the vanilla and oaky notes give it a very deep and composed feel. The subtle spices and vegetable notes present throughout the taste give it an added edge and grace, resulting in a really interesting wine that will age for some more years.

Tasted on 2012-10-11

Scala Dei Prior 2007

17.0 / 20

Producer: Cellers de Scala Dei

Region: Priorat

Country: Spain

Deep, dark purple to the eye, this red from the Priorat has an intense, warm nose, at first centered on exotic woods and spices and then revealing a strong ripe black fruit backbone.

Full-bodied, intense and structured as usual with the reds from the Priorat, it shows some hard tannins and a fresh acidity that keeps it from being too heavy. Lots of caramel and cocoa notes in the palate, more present than the fruit notes, although there are some juicy dark plums in the intense, long and hot ending.

A really intense wine that will probably age well for a couple more years.

Tasted on 2012-09-01

Bacalhôa Moscatel Roxo 2000

17.0 / 20

Producer: Bacalhôa

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

From one of the major wine producers in Setúbal (and Portugal, I guess), this Moscatel Roxo is a great example of these fortified wines. Light amber, the nose is intense and rich but never being excessive. I was reminded of an aged Madeira on first impact, with the same crystalized lemon rind, exotic woods, dried fruits and smoky feel. Later on, there are also a good deal of more flowery notes (orange blossom) popping up.

In the palate, this shows a masterful balance between the sweetness brought by the more honeyed notes and the acidity that is brought by the crystalized lemon and orange rind. Structured and full-bodied as expected, but able to keep the taste lively and fresh, finishing in a lengthy fashion.

Tasted on 2012-08-25

FSF 2001

17.0 / 20

Producer: José Maria da Fonseca

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Lovely lively garnet color on this red from Setúbal, the nose is very intense, with notes of vanilla and other spices, some red berries jam and, after some time, a touch of leather hinting at its age.

On first impact on the mouth, it shows its age, dominated by pleasant leathery notes along with strong vanilla and cocoa flavors. As it opens, some red fruit also appears in a very composed, balanced body that still shows a good deal of acidity and some very nicely tuned tannins. Very long persistence leaving notes of red fruit jam and cocoa all over the palate.

I tasted the 2004 a year or so ago and felt the wine still had a lot to offer. I think the 2001 confirms that. It's in a great drinking window and It will definitely hold for a couple of years more.

Tasted on 2012-07-12

Quinta dos Malvedos Vintage 1999

17.0 / 20

Producer: Graham's

Region: Porto

Country: Portugal

In the years when there is no general Vintage declaration and the classical vintages are not bottled, single quinta vintages are usually produced - at least recently. More easily approachable in their youth than the classical vintages, these usually offer great value for a lower price than their classical cousins - and sometimes they're every bit as good as them (I'm thinking Quinta do Vesúvio right now).

This port is the single quinta from Graham's. The grapes used for this wine are usually the backbone of the great Graham's vintages. I had the opportunity to taste this wine a year and a half ago in a wine fair in Oporto and was completely blown away by it - amazing aromas and flavors and an amazing depth and complexity.

This time, the wine felt more restrained and closed than before. Although allowed a good decanting time, it never seemed to get to that level of expressiveness that I remembered. Lots of plums in the nose, a touch of oak/smoke, some raisins. Feels very young and restrained, as if the full set of aromas are there but unable to break out.

Still impressively structured in the palate, with really velvet smooth tannins and a good acidity, it shows some meaty red plums - also some dried plums and raising give it some residual sweetness. Really good persistence.

I'd say that you should not drink this right now. It's probably going through a closed phase right now - not uncommon in vintage Port. Hold on to it for a couple of years more - it should be worth it.

Tasted on 2012-07-07

Roquette & Cazes 2008

17.0 / 20

Producer: Quinta do Crasto

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

The 2008 vintage for the result of a Bordeaux-Douro joint venture, this keeps up the great work from previous vintages.

Dark purple in the glass, the nose is an outstanding Douro, pulpy wild berries, loads of flowers, spices in a background of oak and caramel. I was expecting this to be less intense than the 2007 but it's definitely on the same expressive, intense yet balanced level.

The palate follows suit, nicely structured and powerful yet elegant and balanced, with velvety tannins, the impressions of red fruits - raspberries - beautifully matched with the oak, a good level of acidity but all in an approachable, very drinkable package. Long imposing finale that leaves notes of those meaty raspberries lingering for a long time.

Great value for its price tag, and a very good Douro.

Tasted on 2012-07-05

Quinta do Crasto Vinhas Velhas 2007

17.0 / 20

Producer: Quinta do Crasto

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

Lively ruby to the eye, very young and fresh, the nose is expectedly intense, with some caramel and oak at first taking center stage, later replaced by sweet, ripe black fruits along with some violets and rock roses and also a touch of mint on the side. Intense, powerful as one would expect from this Douro.

Insanely structured in the mouth, although the tannins seem very integrated right now, layered with being astringent. Almost chewy, with layers of black fruits mixed with vanilla notes, this is a very balanced wine, although its long and persistent ending sometimes errs too much into the jammy side of things, with some notes of overly ripe fruits.

But still one of the best red Douros at this price range. Great stuff.

Tasted on 2012-04-30

Quinta da Casa Amarela Reserva 2006

17.0 / 20

Producer: Quinta da Casa Amarela

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

I think I've been avoiding this wine for the past 5 years or so, ever since it failed to impress me at a dinner in a restaurant in the heart of the Douro. Maybe the bottle was too warm or the night too hot (it was August, after all) or we've just spent the day tasting Ports, but the wine left a negative impression in my mind - not that it was bad, just not good enough for the price tag.

Several years later, a bottle of the 06 vintage found its way into my collection and was dutifully tasted and drank. Nice dark ruby to the eye, the nose is intense, powerful, very Douro like - with flowers, dark fruits, a noticeable oaky feel and a hint of rocks in the background.

Nice, full body with an unctuosity that I usually associate with oak-staged whites - almost buttery, it is very well balanced between dark, ripe fruits, oak and spices, all laid down in firm, velvety and very structured tannins. A sensation of elegance pervades the taste. Good, persistent finish reveals yet another layer of tannins, enhancing the dryness and body of the wine.

Really well made, the only downsides being that there's maybe a little too much alcohol in the end, taking away some of the elegance and I didn't feel it would hold much longer - this is probably due to the vintage.

But anyway, it completely erased past bad experiences and I'm totally open to trying other vintages.

Tasted on 2012-04-26

Roquette & Cazes 2007

17.0 / 20

Producer: Quinta do Crasto

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

The second release for this joint venture between Douro and Bordeaux, this a dark, purple color and an intense, Douro-like bouquet where wild dark berries mingle with flowers in an oaky background. Really intense, inviting and enticing.

The taste shows an amazingly elegant wine, well structured but not feeling heavy with fruit and flowery notes seamlessly integrated with oak and toast. Velvety, elegant but very present tannins add to the complexity of this wine. Finishes long and balanced.

Great and remarkable wine, improving on the already very good first vintage - I remember that I felt that the 2006 had a little too much alcohol that harmed the overall balance of the wine. Happily, this was changed for the 2007, the alcohol level having dropped by 1%. And it definitely made a difference.

Tasted on 2012-03-24

Vértice 2007

17.0 / 20

Producer: Caves Transmontanas

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

This is a personal favorite of mine from the Douro, since it offers great value for a very reasonable price (under 20€). This 2007 is probably the best Vértice I've tasted so far, able to keep the alcohol feel under control, whereas in previous vintages the finish was marked by it.

Not very concentrated in color, the nose has notes of oak, some pepper, a slight vegetable feel, dark crushed plums and some jam. Also, a background of shale makes for an expressive, intensive and very Douro nose.

Curiously, on the first impact on the palate there's a strong vegetable impression, that's later replaced by spices, lots of dark fruits and still a strong oak/coffee/toast overtone, reminding us this is still a veyr young wine. Well balanced, structured body with tannins still hard and very lively, but kept under check and a really good acidity.

Good, long persistence that leaves more oak/toast notes on the palate along with a flowery and spicy aftertaste.

Really interesting and definitely one to keep in the cellar for some years.

Tasted on 2012-02-12