Messias Colheita 1977

17.5 / 20

Producer: Messias

Region: Porto

Country: Portugal

The first colheita I tasted from Messias, this 1977 was bottled in 2007 and is showing very well at the moment, the spirits here already tamed and integrated into the whole wine.

Really interesting, complex nose where dried fruits mingle with some exotic woods in a sweet, honeyed background.

Smooth and layered in the palate, honey and caramel, rasins and dried plums, the spirits give it some acidity and freshness. Delicate, smooth caramel notes come up as well in a smooth, elegant and velvety body. Great, long finish. Amazing value for the price.

Blog 2009

17.5 / 20

Producer: Tiago Cabaço

Region: Alentejo

Country: Portugal

This is the top wine for a young winemaker from Estremoz, Alentejo - and Susana Estéban, of Crasto and Solar dos Lobos fame. I tasted the 07 (or 08) vintage a couple of years ago and was not very impressed, feeling its quality did not match up to its price - something which was inverted in the othe brands, .com and .beb that had a really good quality/price ratio.

Since this 09 gained a lot of attention, being declared the best 2009 Alentejo wine in some places, I decided to try it again. And I'm glad I did!

Deep purple in the glass, it's very intense in the nose. Not a classical Alentejo, but somehow managing to take that classical side and turn it into something modern and vibrant all along. The Alicante Bouschet is front stage at first with olives showing up, a hint of spices and some meaty black fruit. As it breathes, the Syrah joins in, again showing some vibrant black fruit in a sweeter perspective, almost jammy. But always feeling very balanced and poised.

Feels very elegant in the mouth, although it definitely is a very sructured, full bodied wine. The raspberries come more to the foreground in the palate than in the nose, very well backed up by a fresh acidity and a layer of velvety tannins handing out even more structure to the wine. Finish is long and intense.

Paired marveously with a lamb coated with honey and rosemary, a regional recipe from a top restaurant in Estremoz.

Pascal Jolivet Exception 2002

17.5 / 20

Producer: Pascal Jolivet

Region: Sancerre

Country: France

I approached this bottle with some caution... although I've really liked another white wine I had tasted from Pascal Jolivet, a 10-year old white Sancerre should not be in it's finest form, for sure. Reading the producer's site and seeing that this brand, Exception, would age well for 3-5 years did nothing to make me more comfortable.

Opened and poured, the light golden color was the first sign that not everything has lost - I was expecting to find a deeply golden colored wine. Still with some caution, I approached the glass to the nose: not bad, some signs of evolution with some glyceric notes, some nuts and almonds but clearly under control. A swirl or two and a beautiful, enticing and elegant bouquet started appearing - Very mineral and fresh, with lots of rubber and phosphorus with just a hint of sweet, boiled apples. My preconceptions were starting to shatter by now.

Tasting it with a lot more confidence, the body in this is superb. Fresh and showing an almost chalky, unbelievable acidity for its age - think Chablis, here - this is a totally mineral driven white, precise and balanced, filling the palate with some subtle lemony, dry notes and finishing in a dry, long way.

It definitely lost some of fruit and grassy feel that Sauvignon Blanc usually has when young, but it gained so much more. For me, a great example of how a white wine can age gracefully and develop unexpected but very welcome aromas and flavors.

Tasted on 2012-06-24

Blandy's Bual 1980

17.5 / 20

Producer: Blandy's

Region: Madeira

Country: Portugal

Dark golden, almost amber, this 1980 Bual is starting to show the complexity usually found in old Madeiras in both the nose and the mouth.

Dried figs and almonds show up in the nose, along with the usual burnt sugars and exotic woods. Also present are some iodine notes, giving it a fresh, scented nose.

Feeling very fresh in the mouth, this shows a beautiful balance. Deep and complex, with a marked toffee side to it, it finishes long and pleasant.

A very good Madeira, in a fine balance between the usual Madeira acidity and the weight and complexity given by its sweeter side.

Tasted on 2012-01-05

Ramos Pinto Vintage 2007

17.5 / 20

Producer: Ramos Pinto

Region: Porto

Country: Portugal

Dark purple, this 2007 vintage has a intense, concentrated bouquet. Some chemical and mineral notes, loads of red berries and a strong sense of rockroses mark the nose.

As usual for vintages this young and specially from 2007, this has an immense structure, with hard, strong tannins which are matched in intensity by the fresh acidity and an astonishing quantity of red berries. Very vigorous, this finishes in a long and imposing way.

Definitely, a vintage to keep for a long time, although it can be tasted right now, if you serve it slightly chilled and give it some decanter time (some 2 or 3 hours).

Tasted on 2011-12-18

Quinta da Ervamoira Vintage 2007

17.5 / 20

Producer: Ramos Pinto

Region: Porto

Country: Portugal

Another Ramos Pinto vintage presented late October in a special tasting, this is the single quinta brand for Ramos Pinto. 2007 was a very special year for vintage port, allowing some incredibly powerful wines that will last decades, and this one was no exception.

Very dark colored, the nose is very intense and complex. Some chemical notes, intense flowers and red sweet berries are abundant and almost overwhelming. Also some almonds and dried prunes.

As expected, this is a powerful, untamed, almost chewable wine in the mouth. Very structured, with some pretty hard tannins that stick to your gums, a vibrant acidity and loads and loads of sweet red berries. Finish is very long and shows some subtle vegetable notes.

I'd say this is a wine to keep for a couple of decades before drinking. But if you like young vintages, then this is a good example from a brilliant year. Allow it at least a couple of hours in the decanter and serve it around 14º to ease out the hard tannins.

Will go well with dark chocolate or strong cheeses.

Tasted on 2011-12-04

Gratavinum GV5 2007

17.5 / 20

Producer: Gratavinum

Region: Priorat

Country: Spain

The few Priorat wines I've had the chance to taste have been really eye openers to that region, all of them being big, full wines that still manage to keep an amazing elegance and poise.

This one is no exception to the rule with a strong, involving nose that shows the usual - for spanish wines - intense vanilla notes, along with some sweet red berries, some kirsch and, to the back, some soft leather notes that give it an added layer of interest.

Big, very structured and dense in the palate, this has some still hard tannins that show the wine's youth. Yet, the sweet red berries are already very well integrated with the pervading oak, resulting in a strong, intense and real well made wine that, in spite of its high alcohol mark - around 15%, manages to retain its elegance. Very strong, long finish leaving behind some elegant leathery notes.

Tasted on 2011-11-19

Absis 2003

17.5 / 20

Producer: Parés Baltà

Region: Penedès

Country: Spain

I had Penedès pinned down as a white wine region, but with relatively unremarkable red wines. Lately, a series of very good red wines from this spanish region has started to change my mind. This, the 2003 vintage for Absis, is probably the most remarkable from the lot.

Beautiful ruby in the glass, showing no signs of evolution whatsoever, the bouquet is very inviting, subtle and sophisticated. Fleshy red fruits join together with high quality toast/oak notes and a slight vegetable scent in the background.

Smooth and rounded in the palate, the taste still shows a good deal of fleshy red fruits. The wine has a very nice presence, with moderate acidity and velvety tannins that are still going strong after 8 years, giving this wine a very nice, solid structure. The finish is very long, smooth and elegant, showing some slight vegetable notes that manage to enhance the whole experience.

A very good wine that will still live for several more years.

Tasted on 2011-11-14

Sidónio de Sousa Garrafeira 2005

17.5 / 20

Producer: Dulcinea dos Santos Ferreira

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

This wine represents the last vintage for a centenary Baga vineyard in the Bairrada - it was replanted shortly afterward.

Dark purple, almost pitch black, the nose is deep, strong and complex. Lots of meaty red fruits, some green olives and peppers, a hint of flowers maybe. Really impressive.

Big bodied, very layered in the mouth. Concentrated and full, still showing a crisp, marked acidity and some hard tannins that do not overwhelm the rich notes of red fruit that still shine through. The oak notes here are classical and beautifully balanced, providing just enough toast and smoke but never coming along as the main drivers for the wine. The finish is enormous, astringent and almost chewy.

An inspiring, monumental wine that still has a couple of decades in it.

Tasted on 2011-10-29

Conceito 2009

17.5 / 20

Producer: Rita Ferreira Marques

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

I remember tasting the first vintage for Conceito white some 2 or 3 years ago and feeling it was a bit overpriced - a good wine, but not worth the 25€ tag.

This, the 2009 vintage, on the other hand, is an outstanding wine totally worth its price. Straw yellow on the glass, the bouquet is very well composed, sophisticated, delicate but very expressive, with notes of tropical and white fruits, a mineral background and a subtle touch of oak.

In the mouth, the oak is more to the foreground, granting it some unctuosity, structure and weight. On the other side, a fresh acidity and some nice notes of tropical fruits keep it from becoming too heavy and award it a great feel.

Expecting an oak marked ending, I was surprised by intense pineapple notes in an extremely long finish, giving it a citrus, dry feeling that, for me, takes this to another level.

Outstanding wine.

Tasted on 2011-09-19

Tokaj Hetszolo Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos 2001

17.5 / 20

Producer: Hetszolo

Region: Tokaj-Hegyalja

Country: Hungary

This is a Tokaji wine from Hungary. The Aszu stands for noble rot (Botrytis Cinerea) - and it is the most noble kind of Tokaj -and the 5 puttonyos are a measure of the residual sugar in the wine - the scale goes from 3 (least sweet) to 6 (extra rare and the sweetest). As sweet wines go, Tokaji is up there on the top along with the Sauternes or Port - although they share more with Sauternes since they are also Late Harvest wines.

Beautiful old golden colour, the bouquet is impressively complex and vibrant, showing some dried apricots, hazelnuts, maybe a hint of honey. A very composed, clean bouquet that really grabs your attention.

To the taste, it is a structured wine, showing notes of honey and dried apricots all along, showing a good, balanced acidity that keeps the sweetness from becoming too much in the palate. Finishes long, leaving a persistent honey-like aftertaste that stays for a long time.

Paired with foie-gras stuffed dates and it was really good - the classical pairing of foie-gras and late harvest still makes sense. Would also be a good wine to enjoy by itself, after meals.

Tasted on 2011-05-23

D'Oliveiras Colheita Terrantez 1988

17.5 / 20

Producer: D'Oliveiras

Region: Madeira

Country: Portugal

Unfortunately, Madeira wines are often overlooked by most consumers, even in Portugal. Truth is Port is usually the first option for a fortified wine and is much easier to find. But every time I taste a good Madeira, I'm reminded of the amazing finesse and complexity these wines have to offer.

This one, a Terrantez - a rare grape nowadays - from 1988 shows a beautiful dark orange, almost amber colour. The nose is fragrant and complex, with the usual smoky, burnt sugar notes along with oak impressions. A strong lemony/citrus/orange skin feel pervades the bouquet and I'm pretty sure there's some tropical fruits going around in the background.

In the mouth, a full bodied wine, yet dry and with a beautiful, crisp, fresh acidity. Burnt sugar notes and, again, the suggestion of some tropical fruit. Finishes long leaving a lengthy, acid citrus aftertaste.

Really, really good.

Maybe as an aperitif or by itself after meals. Its high acidity will make it tricky to pair with desserts, in my opinion.

Tasted on 2011-05-13

Barolo Marcenasco 2004

17.5 / 20

Producer: Renato Ratti

Region: Piemonte

Country: Italy

Light garnet in color with some brownish tinges on the edge, the bouquet is intense and full: flowers (roses), mixed with spices and some earthier notes - tar, maybe. Extremely powerful yet very balanced.

Amazing structure in the mouth, very lively tannins and a clear acidity. It's not fruit-driven at all, relying on a mix of spicier notes, some oaky notes and tying it up all together with almost a dried fruit feel. Great balanced and intense set finishing in a really long way.

Barolos are wines made to age for a lot of time and this one certainly showed that it is still an infant. Although being decanted for a couple of hours before dinner, it was still a bit closed and the tannins were still hard. But it will definitely cellar really well.

As with most italian wines, pair it with food. This is not a wine to drink by itself.

Worked perfectly along with a wild boar ragú, matching the complexity and richness of the stew flavors.

Tasted on 2011-04-25

Chryseia 2005

17.5 / 20

Producer: Prats & Symington

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

The 05 vintage for Chryseia is a really dark, almost black wine.

The bouquet centers around floral impressions, black cherries and vanilla notes in the background. Very fresh, it exquisitely balances delicacy with intensity.

To the taste, a vigorous, really young wine. Robust yet balanced tannins give this wine a great structure, in a body where the oak is perhaps a bit strong right now. Nice black fruit appears toward the end of the taste, in a wonderfully long and persistent finish.

For my taste, I think this would benefit from cellaring some more years. If the previous vintages are anything to go by, 3 years from now this will be even better.

Tasted on 2011-04-18

Quinta do Crasto Vinhas Velhas 2004

17.5 / 20

Producer: Quinta do Crasto

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

Lively garnet in the glass, the nose is complex and layered. At first, a hint of wild red berries quickly replaced by spices, a touch of toast, maybe some flowers and rockroses. Started off a bit closed but opened up after a hour or so in the glass.

To the taste, a perfectly balanced wine, great structure, tannins still very present - although they tame down after some time. The taste is marked again by spices, maybe some black plums appear towards the end, but everything in its rightful place and in correct proportions. Finish is very long, very persistent.

Great wine that will probably grow for a couple more years in the bottle.

Went down great along with a mustard and rosemary crusted lamb rack.

Tasted on 2011-04-17

Chryseia 2001

17.5 / 20

Producer: Prats & Symington

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

One of the many special tastings at Essência do Vinho earlier this month in Oporto was a vertical tasting of the Chryseia from 2001 to 2008. Chryseia is a top brand from the Douro, the result of a joint venture between the Symington family (from the Douro) and the Prats family (from Bordeaux), who joined forces to make outstanding Douro wines.

2001 was the second vintage for Chryseia, and ten years later it is truly remarkable. Starting with the color, an intense and young ruby without any traces of evolution, continuing to the bouquet, where toast/oaky notes combine gracefully with ripe cherries and a flowery vibe is apparent on the background. Still a very fresh nose, full of life, balance and elegance.

Great balance in the mouth as well. Really good structure, silky tannins - but still very perceptible, a fresh, delicate, very well balanced wine that finishes very long with the same sensation of freshness.

It's drinking beautifully now and I urge you to try it, but I believe it will age gracefully for a couple of years more. Really, really outstanding.

Tasted on 2011-03-27

Grande Follies 2007

17.5 / 20

Producer: Aveleda

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

The north of Portugal is, in my opinion, the source for the best white wines in Portugal. Happily, they have been getting better year after year. The Bairrada region, already home to some really good white wines, has gained a new worthy addition. This is the new top brand from Aveleda for Bairrada and it certainly made its point.

Pale golden in color, the bouquet is impressive. Boiled pear and apricots stand side by side with almonds and hazelnuts.The fact that the wine aged in oak is apparent from the aromas, but it is masterly balanced by a freshness that easily makes us forget that this is the 2007 vintage.

Round and full to the taste, structured yet with a freshness that stops it from becoming too heavy, yellow fruits and oak notes combine to give us an amazingly elegant and balanced taste, that finishes leaving a long aftertaste.

Great debut. Production was rather small, so hurry up if you want to taste this - and believe me, you want to taste this.

Tasted on 2011-03-15

Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gains 1ere Cru 2004

17.5 / 20

Producer: Maison Chanson

Region: Bourgogne

Country: France

Had the chance to attend a special tasting session with several Maison Chanson wines a couple of weeks ago and this was the standout wine for me (although the other ones were great as well - will add notes later).

The bouquet starts mineral, than turns grassy and vegetable, at the same time revealing some tropical sweet fruit and, further into the background, still shows some vanilla and almond. Perfectly balanced, changing with each swirl of the glass and showing an amazing depth and purity.

Taste follows through, revealing a brilliant wine, where the acidity and dryness are to the front, backed up by the creaminess and structure of the oak which gives the wine some roundness. Brilliant, long ending with vegetable notes coming up strong again.

Overall, I was really impressed by this wine, combining the high acidity and dryness with the oak in a masterly fashion. Also impressed by the freshness that a 6 year old white can reveal. I'm pretty sure it will still grow in the bottle for some years.

Fatter fishes (salmon or tuna) will probably pair with this wine brilliantly.

Tasted on 2010-11-16

Encontro 1 2008

17.5 / 20

Producer: Dão Sul

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

Hailing from the Bairrada region, this straw coloured white wine starts by filling the nose with toasted, vanilla notes reminiscent of its stage in oak. Some tropical fruit and citrus notes are beautifully integrated with these, resulting in a elegant, sophisticated aroma. In the mouth, it keeps showing off its elegance, with a creamy texture balanced by a great acidity ending with a long, persistent finish. A really good white from the Bairrada and probably one of the best white wines in Portugal.

Tasted on 2010-06-13

Cortes de Cima Reserva 2003

17.5 / 20

Producer: Cortes de Cima

Region: Alentejo

Country: Portugal

Tasted earlier this year, the first word that comes to mind when trying to describe this wine is elegance. At 7 years old, this wine is starting to develop some old wine aromas, as some camphor, spices, a hint of chocolate, maybe. A great, delicate and elegant nose. The taste is superb, layered and complex, the tannins already integrated with both the oak and the fruit. The finish is extremely long and persistent, with some hints of chocolate.

Roast lamb with rosemary and honey was a fine match for this wine.

Tasted on 2010-05-11