Blandy's Bual 1920

19.5 / 20

Producer: Blandy's

Region: Madeira

Country: Portugal

Dark amber in the glass, this 92 year old Bual (bottled after 65 years in cask) is, to put it bluntly, a nearly perfect wine - in fact, I hesitated between 19.5 and 20 all the way through the taste.

Starting with the amazingly lively and intense bouquet, where crystallized oranges and exotic woods mingle with raisins, lemon rind, iodine, toffee all bundled together in an elegant and simultaneously intense. One of those wines you keep swirling in the glass, eagerly waiting (and getting) yet another twist, another combination of scents.

Following up with a heavenly structured body - simply unreal after all this time, a remarkable acidity in a taste that conjures up notes of caramel, some citrus, english cake and toffee and an intense finish that lasts forever... and then keeps going for a little more, leaving a dried fruits aftertaste.

It is simply an amazing combination of elegance and intensity, masterly polished by time resulting in a seemingly eternal wine.

Tasted on 2012-02-19

Ramos Pinto Vintage 1931

19.5 / 20

Producer: Ramos Pinto

Region: Porto

Country: Portugal

One of the vintages presented at a great tasting event - the last 2 centuries of Ramos Pinto Vintages - that took place in Lisbon last month, this was, in my opinion, one of the highlights - which is saying a lot, since all the wines presented were of the highest quality.

Amber colored, the nose is, at first, a little subdued, with some hazelnuts, spices, a touch of iodine. It gains some strength as it breathes, old cupboards come to mind and finally, notes of cocoa and chocolate appear. Twenty minutes after being poured, the nose on this wine is completely unreal, showing a complexity, strength and life beyond expectation.

The palate follows through. On first impact, iodine and hazelnuts take center stage. Spices join the dried fruits making a not very sweet mouth. Acidity is amazing for a 80 year old wine, still vibrant and alive. Marvelously structured, with a ridiculously long finish that leaves cocoa and chocolate impressions.

But again, it's the way the wine grows in the glass that blew me away and make this a truly outstanding wine. 80 year old wines are not supposed to gain complexity and life when exposed to oxygen. Certainly not like this one. Truly otherworldly.

Tasted on 2011-11-26

Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage 1994

19.5 / 20

Producer: Quinta do Vesúvio

Region: Porto

Country: Portugal

One of the best recent vintage years, 1994 gave us this wine. An absolute monument to what a vintage should be. The color is a deep ruby. The nose is absolutely fabulous, giving us a complex and balanced wine, with black fruit notes, along with some spices and tobacco and a hint of vegetable notes. Tasting it, it is overwhelming in its complexity and structure, with sweet notes all the way,a great acidity and a never ending finish.

This wine is, along with the Graham's Vintage 1970, the best Vintage Port I've tasted so far.

Graham's Vintage 1970

19.5 / 20

Producer: Graham's

Region: Porto

Country: Portugal

Tasted in a great event (10 vintage Ports from Symington hosted by Peter Symington), this was the absolute standout.

Deep red showing some brown on the corners, the nose showed some great fruit, along with honey, spices and some dried fruits. In the mouth, this was absolutely awesome. Full, complex and delicate, it still has an excellent acidity, showing that it can still evolve for some years. The finish is unbelievably long. Absolutely great.