Luís Pato Vinhas Velhas 1988

15.5 / 20

Producer: Luís Pato

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

Bought two bottles of this red wine from the Bairrada at an auction some months ago, since this vintage - the first for the Vinhas Velhas from Luís Pato - is regarded as one of the best. The first I opened was in really bad shape. This second one was much better, although I was expecting more - but maybe the bottles were not kept conveniently.

Clear garnet without many traces of evolution, this has a classical old wine bouquet, with old cupboards and an earthy, dead leafs feel. Beneath this, there is also a vegetable note - not unusual in Baga, but a surprise after 20-odd years - and a scent of iodine. Still later on, some sweeter notes - like toffee - appear.

Soft in the mouth, as expected, it still reveals a very interesting structure for its age. Notes of old cupboards and dry leaves permeate the taste that finishes in a high note, with a good, still strong ending.

Definitely one to drink right now, but still a nice experience.

Tasted on 2012-01-29

D'Oliveiras Colheita Terrantez 1988

17.5 / 20

Producer: D'Oliveiras

Region: Madeira

Country: Portugal

Unfortunately, Madeira wines are often overlooked by most consumers, even in Portugal. Truth is Port is usually the first option for a fortified wine and is much easier to find. But every time I taste a good Madeira, I'm reminded of the amazing finesse and complexity these wines have to offer.

This one, a Terrantez - a rare grape nowadays - from 1988 shows a beautiful dark orange, almost amber colour. The nose is fragrant and complex, with the usual smoky, burnt sugar notes along with oak impressions. A strong lemony/citrus/orange skin feel pervades the bouquet and I'm pretty sure there's some tropical fruits going around in the background.

In the mouth, a full bodied wine, yet dry and with a beautiful, crisp, fresh acidity. Burnt sugar notes and, again, the suggestion of some tropical fruit. Finishes long leaving a lengthy, acid citrus aftertaste.

Really, really good.

Maybe as an aperitif or by itself after meals. Its high acidity will make it tricky to pair with desserts, in my opinion.

Tasted on 2011-05-13