Herdade do Peso Reserva 2004

17/ 20

Producer: Herdade do Peso - Sogrape

Region:Alentejo

Country:Portugal

A very elegant wine in the nose, showing nice jammy fruit notes, a minty/eucalyptus feel in the background and some discreet evolution notes, the slighest note of leather creeping up here and there, contributing to a very intriguing bouquet.

Very alive in the palate, with the typical Alentejo jammier fruit notes very well integrated with the oak backed by a still very fresh acidity. Structured but not heavy, velvety, round tannins permeate the taste that finishes long, elegant and very balanced.

It will still live for a couple of years at least, but right now it's an extremely pleasurable, rewarding wine.

Reguengos Garrafeira dos Sócios 2004

16.5 / 20

Producer: CARMIM

Region: Alentejo

Country: Portugal

A classic Alentejo, this is the top brand from CARMIM, in Reguengos de Monsaraz. Lively garnet in the glass, the nose is really inviting with a lot of spices, some oak notes in the shape of cocoa and some vanilla and a decent amount of dried plums and raisins that hint at its age but are extremely enjoyable.

Very balanced, almost delicate in the glass at first, although it still manages to show a good deal of complexity in a body that is very marked by spices and dried plums and raisins. Some ripe red fruits also appear in the background. Remarkable for its balance and elegance, this is a very gastronomical wine that will pair with a lot of different dishes. Long, composed finish again highlights the wine's balance

and elegance.

Paired very well with a roast rabbit, the smoothness and delicacy of the meat flavor matching the elegance of the wine step by step.

Tasted on 2012-09-03

Quinta da Bica Reserva 2004

16.5 / 20

Producer: Quinta da Bica

Region: Dão

Country: Portugal

This red from the Dão comes from a small producer near the Serra da Estrela. Dark ruby to the eye, without any trace of evolution, the nose is marked at first by vanilla notes and flowers along with some more mineral, silex-like notes. Warm and intense, it later shows some cocoa and coffee and, still later, some meaty red fruit also joins this nice and balanced bouquet.

It shows a slightly more fruit-forward body, with an average structure, balanced acidity and a nice overall dryness. Some lively tannins give it some strength, but overall this is a balanced, velvety wine with a nice finish that brings to mind more red fruits and mineral notes.

Tasted on 2012-02-29

Viúva Gomes 2004

16.0 / 20

Producer: Jacinto Lopes Baeta, Filhos

Region: Colares

Country: Portugal

The Colares region - near Sintra - was once one of the major portuguese wine producing regions. Due to the sea proximity and the sandy soil, vines tend to grow very close to the ground and planting a new vine is quite an effort, involving digging a hole in the sand until enough earth is found to root the vine. Wines from Colares are definitely and unashamedly old-worldly, steering very far from the fruity, easy to drink wines that rule the markets. But still, worth tasting if not only for the experience.

Garnet in the glass, the bouquet is definitely tertiary, with some nice leather notes, old cupboards but still showing a lot of life. A definite earthy touch and, in the background, some acid red berries compose the set.

Good acidity in the mouth, with the tannins still going strong after seven years in bottle. Mainly leather and coffee/toast notes in the palate, this wine shows a rather soft, yet pleasant body. Low in alcohol and very pleasant to taste, this finishes with a medium persistence, always keeping the leather and coffee/toast notes.

A very different wine from the mainstream wines, this is really worth tasting if you want to experience something different.

Tasted on 2012-02-16

Quinta do Além Tanha Vinhas Velhas 2004

16.5 / 20

Producer: Quinta dos Avidagos

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

Dark ruby, this wine shows intense ripe red fruits on the nose, along with some elegant oak and taste. Pretty intense and strong, it's a pleasurable bouquet.

Very well balanced in the mouth, with lots of red fruit, supported by a fresh acidity and quite hard tannins, that support and give strength to a well structured and layered body.

Although the ending is not very long, it still has a good presence, dry and with a refreshing acidity, leaving notes of red fruits on the aftertaste.

A good Douro from an year that is starting to reveal itself as a really good one from this portuguese region.

Tasted on 2012-01-02

Czar 2004

15.5 / 20

Producer: José Duarte Garcia

Region: Açores

Country: Portugal

A fortified wine from the Pico island in the Azores, this half dry wine is a blend of Arinto, Verdelho and Terrantez.

Amber, almost orange in the glass, the nose is rich and inviting, with notes of dried coconut, citrus, crystallized fruits. Later, some hazelnuts also appear along with cocoa.

Quite dry in the mouth, with a very fresh acidity, this is clearly a different, distinct wine. Dried fruits and exotic woods mark the taste, whereas the citrus and cocoa appear again in the palate cleansing medium-long finish.

Interesting and different, with a pleasant, refreshing finish, I think that it would benefit from some more complexity and depth in the mouth, as the nose promises a bit more.

Tasted on 2011-12-01

Barolo La Rocca e La Pira 2004

17.0 / 20

Producer: Roagna

Region: Piemonte

Country: Italy

I tasted one of the Barbarescos from Roagna last year and was very impressed. So i had high expectations about this, one of their Barolos from a highly regarded vintage.

Garnet/red in color, the bouquet is very intense, filled with leathery notes, spices, tobaco, wild flowers and beneath it all, a dash of red fruits.

On the first impact on the mouth, the high acidity and still strong tannins come through. Well structured, dry, quite austere, this is a classical old world wine, with a definite earthy, spices approach that leaves the fruit in the background. Long, persistent finish with notes of leather lingering in the mouth.

Due to the high acidity and hard tannins, I'd guess this will evolve for a couple of years. Actually, Wine Advocate indicates that the drinking window for this is 2014-2024 and, from this tasting, I believe the 3 year wait will be worth it.

Tasted on 2011-10-25

Mitolo Jester Shiraz 2004

15.5 / 20

Producer: Mitolo Wines

Region: McLaren Valley

Country: Australia

Deeply intense in color, the first aromas are of toast and coffee. Afterwards, some jam and mint. And finally, after opening up, sweet ripe plums and blueberries appear in an intense, front forward way.

Very fruit forward in the palate, with lots of dark plums, it also shows some sweeter, rasin-like notes that hint at some evolution. Nice structure, tamed tannins and a balanced acidity make up a decent, honest taste. Persistence is average length, again showing lots of sweet dark fruit and maybe revealing a touch of too much alcohol.

According to the producer, this wine is supposed to age gracefully for 5 to 7 years and, from this bottle, I would agree. Although enjoyable right now, it is starting to show some sweet, dried fruits notes that hint that it has peaked.

Tasted on 2011-10-07

FSF 2004

17.0 / 20

Producer: José Maria da Fonseca

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Coming from Setúbal, this is made mainly from Syrah, with some Trincadeira and Tannat thrown in and is made as a tribute to Fernando Soares Franco, a big name in Setúbal wine who managed, among other things, to keep the last vines of Moscatel Roxo alive.

Dark ruby in color, it shows aromas of leather, spices, coffee and cocoa/chocolate. In the background, some wild red berries also appear. A very composed, distinct and complex bouquet that shows that this wine has aged gracefully and still has a couple more years under the belt. Given time in the glass, the wild berries become a little more expressive.

This has a really nice and complex structure, with tannins still firm and dry. Exquisitely balanced, the firmness of the tannins does not give it a hard or rustic touch, as the fruit and the oak manage to complement each other perfectly, conjuring up a velvety, almost soft taste.

This provides a very nice taste with a very long finale that leaves notes of toast lingering for a long time.

Went great with a roast lamb in a wood oven.

Tasted on 2011-06-25

Barolo Marcenasco 2004

17.5 / 20

Producer: Renato Ratti

Region: Piemonte

Country: Italy

Light garnet in color with some brownish tinges on the edge, the bouquet is intense and full: flowers (roses), mixed with spices and some earthier notes - tar, maybe. Extremely powerful yet very balanced.

Amazing structure in the mouth, very lively tannins and a clear acidity. It's not fruit-driven at all, relying on a mix of spicier notes, some oaky notes and tying it up all together with almost a dried fruit feel. Great balanced and intense set finishing in a really long way.

Barolos are wines made to age for a lot of time and this one certainly showed that it is still an infant. Although being decanted for a couple of hours before dinner, it was still a bit closed and the tannins were still hard. But it will definitely cellar really well.

As with most italian wines, pair it with food. This is not a wine to drink by itself.

Worked perfectly along with a wild boar ragú, matching the complexity and richness of the stew flavors.

Tasted on 2011-04-25

Quinta do Crasto Vinhas Velhas 2004

17.5 / 20

Producer: Quinta do Crasto

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

Lively garnet in the glass, the nose is complex and layered. At first, a hint of wild red berries quickly replaced by spices, a touch of toast, maybe some flowers and rockroses. Started off a bit closed but opened up after a hour or so in the glass.

To the taste, a perfectly balanced wine, great structure, tannins still very present - although they tame down after some time. The taste is marked again by spices, maybe some black plums appear towards the end, but everything in its rightful place and in correct proportions. Finish is very long, very persistent.

Great wine that will probably grow for a couple more years in the bottle.

Went down great along with a mustard and rosemary crusted lamb rack.

Tasted on 2011-04-17

Chryseia 2004

17.0 / 20

Producer: Prats & Symington

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

This was probably my least favorite Chryseia from the vertical tasting last month. As you can see from the score, that does not mean this is a vintage to forget. If I had tasted this by itself, it would probably get another half point or so.

But I tasted it after the 2003, which was, in my opinion, a brilliant wine. This one, while keeping the high standards, did not quite match the delicacy and elegance of the 03. Very intense and dark to the eye, the bouquet is very inviting, with black cherries being the primary marker, in a background of oak, smoke and vanilla.

In the mouth, a very layered, structured wine without being overwhelming. A fresh acidity is prevalent throughout the taste, where the oak is very well balanced with the dark, black fruit. Very persistent, it leaves a memory of oak and cherries in the palate.

It felt a bit more austere than the 2003, maybe still a bit closed. Perhaps in a couple of years this will match or surpass the 2003.

Tasted on 2011-04-12

Colecção Privada DSF Syrah 2004

16.0 / 20

Producer: José Maria da Fonseca

Region: Terras do Sado

Country: Portugal

Dark garnet, the bouquet centers around dark/blue wild berries in a background filled with spices and a touch of oak. Later on, some sweeter, jammier notes appear.

In the mouth, a well structured wine where the still present tannins give it some structure and strength. This structure is helped along by a good acidity. Average length finale leaves an aftertaste of red fruits. All correct and well made. As time passes, the taste becomes a bit more complex with the aftertaste verging towards a spicier feel with some caramel or fudge in the background.

Tasted on 2011-04-10

Quinta das Cerejeiras Reserva 2004

16.5 / 20

Producer: Companhia Agrícola do Sanguinhal

Region: Óbidos

Country: Portugal

Light garnet in color, looking younger than its seven years. Very balanced and subtle in the nose, acid red cherries at first, grassy, vegetable notes, a bit later sweeter fruits like strawberries and a hint of flowers. A very old world kind of feel, very pleasant and a refreshing change.

In the mouth, it's still a fresh wine, showing some marked acidity. Tamed tannins give it some structure, although it is not a full bodied wine. On the contrary, it is a very well balanced, poised wine that is able to carry itself without the help of a massive structure/body. Red fruits well integrated into the set, the finish is long and showing some vegetable notes (it reminded me of olives, for some reason).

I really liked this, since I tend to like this old-world approach. At times, it reminded me of an italian Barbaresco - although being fundamentally different, there are some similarities (strawberries aroma and the marked acidity are two). But overall, it's a wine worth knowing and drinking - at seven years old, it is probably reaching the perfect drinking window now.

Tasted on 2011-03-01

Encostas de Estremoz Alicante Bouschet 2004

15.0 / 20

Producer: Encostas de Estremoz

Region: Alentejo

Country: Portugal

Ripe red fruits (cherries), a vanilla/oaky feel along with jam or candy make up the bouquet for this.

Tasting it, an average structured wine, showing some fruit but feeling a bit tired, I guess. The finish is medium-long but leaves a kind of animal aftertaste which tends to disappear over time. I would classify it as an honest wine for daily consumption (although the 9€ markup might be a bit steep for that).

Tasted on 2011-02-15

Garrafeira RA 2004

16.5 / 20

Producer: José Maria da Fonseca

Region: Terras do Sado

Country: Portugal

This 100% Castelão - a grape type used extensively in the Palmela/Setúbal region - is made by one of the largest wine companies in the region, José Maria da Fonseca. RA stands for Region of Algeruz, which is a subregion inside the Palmela/Setúbal region.

I believe that Castelão is able to produce very good, long lived wines and this one is a really good example. Deep, dark garnet, the nose is very well balanced, plums to the foreground but closely followed by toast/smoky notes, some vanilla in the background along with a spiced feel even further back. For a seven year old, still showing a lot of life in the nose.

To the taste, the same feeling of balance and finesse. Nicely tamed tannins, although present, fruit expertly combined with the oak in a nice ensemble that finishes long and with a strong spiced feeling.

I think this wine is perfect to drink right now, although it will probably grow and last for a couple more years. But right now, it provided a really nice taste.

Tasted on 2011-02-04

Quinta dos Carvalhais Touriga Nacional 2004

16.5 / 20

Producer: Sogrape

Region: Dão

Country: Portugal

The Dão region is one of the birthplaces of Touriga Nacional, a grape type which has been, in recent years, regarded as the flagship for portuguese wine, given its unique character. Historically, it has always been present as part of the blends of Port wine and red wine from the northern regions in Portugal - both the Dão and the Douro.

More recently, several Touriga Nacional varietals have appeared in the market, with mixed results (in my opinion). This one is from a well known farm from the Dão and manages to stand out from the pack. In the nose, my first impressions were red plums and vanilla, followed by some toast notes. Later on, it opens up to some spices and a balsamic feel, maybe. I was a bit surprised I wasn't able to get any violet impressions from this, since Touriga Nacional usually has a definite flower, violet-like aroma. I suppose that it tends to disappear with time. Anyway, a good bouquet, complex and not overly fruit driven.

In the mouth, a very structured, full-bodied wine. Slightly high acidity - a trademark of the Dão, but quite pleasurable. Coffee and cocoa notes mark the taste, finishing with a strong persistence. Quite ready to drink and already showing an older wine bouquet and taste, I would not wait much longer for this. It is, at this moment, perfectly balanced and ready to drink,

Tasted on 2011-01-28

Esmero 2004

17.0 / 20

Producer: Rui José Xavier Soares

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

This wine is an old vines (the vines are over 80 years old) from the Douro region made by a small producer. It is an amazing example of the complexity, structure and finesse that the blends from the douro can offer. I had tasted this particular vintage a couple of years ago and was amazed by it. This time, tasting it two years older, I wasn't expecting very much. Happily, I was wrong.

The wine is very vibrant, the aromas still bring to mind red berries, but they start being secondary to more intense spices (vanilla) and a touch of mint. Very inviting and fragrant bouquet.

Tasting it, we find a very structured, multilayered wine. Everything is in its place, tannins still there but not overly agressive, the fruit perfectly balanced with spices and oak resulting in an impressively balanced taste with a great persistence.

Unfortunately - at least from the consumer perspective, I think the 04 was the last vintage to be sold for under 20€ (which made it an absolute steal). More recent vintages have seen a price increase that, nevertheless, should not detract you from tasting this old vine blend from the Douro

Tasted on 2011-01-17

Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St. Jean 1er Cru 2004

17.0 / 20

Producer: Maison Chanson

Region: Bourgogne

Country: France

Another amazing white Bourgogne I had the chance to taste at the Chanson tasting a couple of weeks ago, the nose is a bit subdued at first, with mineral and vegetable notes much to the foreground. Over time, it gains some momentum and intensity, while maintaing a severe, austere profile.

In the mouth, it reveals an amazing body, mouth-watering dryness and a fabulous acidity - still surprised at how these wines still have this level of acidity 6 years on. Loads of grassy, vegetable notes throughout the taste, finishing with an amazingly long aftertaste.

Tasted on 2010-11-23

Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gains 1ere Cru 2004

17.5 / 20

Producer: Maison Chanson

Region: Bourgogne

Country: France

Had the chance to attend a special tasting session with several Maison Chanson wines a couple of weeks ago and this was the standout wine for me (although the other ones were great as well - will add notes later).

The bouquet starts mineral, than turns grassy and vegetable, at the same time revealing some tropical sweet fruit and, further into the background, still shows some vanilla and almond. Perfectly balanced, changing with each swirl of the glass and showing an amazing depth and purity.

Taste follows through, revealing a brilliant wine, where the acidity and dryness are to the front, backed up by the creaminess and structure of the oak which gives the wine some roundness. Brilliant, long ending with vegetable notes coming up strong again.

Overall, I was really impressed by this wine, combining the high acidity and dryness with the oak in a masterly fashion. Also impressed by the freshness that a 6 year old white can reveal. I'm pretty sure it will still grow in the bottle for some years.

Fatter fishes (salmon or tuna) will probably pair with this wine brilliantly.

Tasted on 2010-11-16