Czar 2004

15.5 / 20

Producer: José Duarte Garcia

Region: Açores

Country: Portugal

A fortified wine from the Pico island in the Azores, this half dry wine is a blend of Arinto, Verdelho and Terrantez.

Amber, almost orange in the glass, the nose is rich and inviting, with notes of dried coconut, citrus, crystallized fruits. Later, some hazelnuts also appear along with cocoa.

Quite dry in the mouth, with a very fresh acidity, this is clearly a different, distinct wine. Dried fruits and exotic woods mark the taste, whereas the citrus and cocoa appear again in the palate cleansing medium-long finish.

Interesting and different, with a pleasant, refreshing finish, I think that it would benefit from some more complexity and depth in the mouth, as the nose promises a bit more.

Tasted on 2011-12-01

Lajido 2002

16.0 / 20

Producer: Cooperativa Vitivinícola da Ilha do Pico

Region: Açores

Country: Portugal

A fortified wine from the Pico island, in the Azores, made with Verdelho grapes, this is a good experience for anyone interested in novel, out of the ordinary wines. These fortified wines have a long history in the island and were highly regarded in the 18th and 19th century all over Europe. Phylloxera in the 1870s destroyed most of the plants and production was very low until the 1970s, when a government led initiative led to an increase in planted vines and a renewed interest in these wines.

Light amber, almost orange in the glass, the nose has dried fruits like hazelnuts, a faint impression of honey and something like malt or cereals.

Very dry in the mouth, structured and fresh showing again notes of honey and malt. Some notes of dried figs also appear in a taste where the acidity is well balanced. Finish is long and dry.

I think there are not many fortified wines like this around - maybe some Sercials or Verdelhos from Madeira come close to this (the dryness is certainly up there). Remarkable and worth the taste.

Tasted on 2011-10-02

Pedras Brancas 2009

15.5 / 20

Producer: Adega Cooperativa da Ilha Graciosa

Region: Açores

Country: Portugal

Unlike most wines from the Azores, which are made in Pico, this one comes from another island: Graciosa. Made with Verdelho, arinto and boal this wine is remarkable for its sense of place or origin. Its aromas and flavors definitely bring to mind the islands from where it comes, as there's a strong mineral undertone that evokes the volcanic soil where these grapes are grown.

It's a light, dry and fresh white wine where the bouquet shows some citrus, a hint of vegetable notes and that mineral quality.

Sustained, discreet and subtle both in the nose and in the palate, it nevertheless shows a good, dry persistence with a mineral aftertaste.

Track this down for a different white wine.

Tasted on 2011-06-24

Terras de Lava 2007

14.5 / 20

Producer: Cooperativa da Ilha do Pico

Region: Açores

Country: Portugal

The Azores islands, like every region in Portugal, are wine producers, although the quantities are quite small. This wine comes from the Pico island, home to a volcano (the highest point in Portugal), made mainly of international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The vines that grow here - and in most of the Azores - grow very close to the ground, in order to protect themselves from the sea winds.

Showing a garnet color, the bouquet is intriguing, revealing intense red fruit, marked by earthy, musky notes.

The first taste is, unfortunately, a bit disappointing, showing a thin wine, with very low acidity and no persistence. A simple, monotonous wine.

However, it opens up in the glass, building up a decent presence in the mouth and revealing a lot more fruit and vegetable impressions - bell peppers from the Cab. Sauvignon - than in the first taste. Although still a simple wine, it gains a lot more interest after opening up. Should you try it, decant it beforehand for an hour or so to get the most out of it.

Tasted on 2010-07-29