Luís Pato Vinha Formal 2008

17 / 20

Producer: Luís Pato

Region:Bairrada

Country:Portugal

100% Bical and staged 9 months in oak, this older white - 5 years - is a reminder that the Bairrada is a prime terroir for whites in Portugal.

The nose expresses the wine's age, with dried fruits appearing, along with a glyceric note. But given time, some sweet white fruit also appears and gives it some grace.

In the palate, the wine is a revelation. Although you can definitely tell it's an older white - although the evolution here is very positive - it comes along as imposing. Very structured and deep, austere and precise, the heavier glyceric notes are matched by an impressive dryness. The set results in a remarkable wine that will probably take on some more cellaring.

Ataíde Semedo Vio 2010

16.0 / 20

Producer: Ataíde Semedo

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

Named Vio since Viognier is not an accepted grape type in the Bairrada wine region, this is a 100% Viognier coming from a renowned portuguese winemaker, credited until recently for one of the best reds from the Bairrada - Quinta da Dona.

Pale yellow in the glass, the nose is very expressive with lots of flowery notes, orange blossom, a nice spice background, everything seasoned with a fresher, citrus side reminiscent of limes.

Very interesting in the palate, showing a good structure and some complexity although it never loses a sense of freshness given by its acidity. Quite flowery in the palate as well, it shows itself as a very interesting, food-friendly wine with a really strong backbone. Finish is full and long, bringing out the more citrus, lime side.

Tasted on 2012-06-20

FP Branco 2010

16.0 / 20

Producer: Filipa Pato

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

A blend of Arinto and Bical, this Bairrada white from Filipa Pato, daughter of Luís Pato - a big name in the Bairrada (and Portugal) wines, is a worthy, nicely priced white.

Light green to the eye, the bouquet shows some nice sweet white fruit in a deeply mineral, rubbery background bringing to mind some rieslings.

It shows a good structure in the palate, with a touch of barley amidst the predominant sweet peaches and apples and a hint of smoke. Very fresh and with just the right amount of dryness to balance a certain creaminess, the ending is intense and persistent, bringing out the smokier side of the wine. I just think the alcohol shows a tiny bit too much in the ending. But overall, great value on this white.

Tasted on 2012-05-15

Campolargo Branco do Tonel 2010

16.0 / 20

Producer: Campolargo

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

I believe the Bairrada region is capable of producing some of the best white wines coming out of Portugal. Not fruit-forward at all, but relying on a backbone of acidity and mineral tones that give them a distinct, exciting and refreshing edge.

This is a pretty good example of that distinctive approach, starting with the bouquet, where the mainly mineral notes meet some boiled pears and apples - this is 80% bical and 20% chardonnay and the chardonnay comes through in the nose.

Great acidity in the mouth, feeling very lively and fresh. Distinct and almost austere in the approach, it feels mineral and lemony but balanced out by some weight and unctuosity that starts on the mid-palate and keeps going until the good, average length, dry finish.

Will probably grow in the bottle. I would certainly like to taste it in a couple of years and see its evolution.

Tasted on 2012-04-18

Grande Follies 2003

16.5 / 20

Producer: Aveleda

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

Top brand from Aveleda, I remember the white version as a remarkable white wine from the Bairrada. This red version, although a good wine by all standards, did not stand out so much.

Impressive dark purple color for its age, the bouquet shows lots of dark plums, a hint of smoke and lots of chocolate and coffee. A jammy, sweeter side also creeps up here and there on an intense, with slight evolution notes bouquet.

Full-bodied in the mouth, very structured and still showing hard, lively tannins, the taste continues showing some plums, chocolate and coffee. Balanced and tuned, there are some mixed feelings on whether this will still grow in the bottle for a long time. Finishes long and smooth with notes of jam and blueberries.

Tasted on 2012-03-17

Luís Pato Vinhas Velhas 1988

15.5 / 20

Producer: Luís Pato

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

Bought two bottles of this red wine from the Bairrada at an auction some months ago, since this vintage - the first for the Vinhas Velhas from Luís Pato - is regarded as one of the best. The first I opened was in really bad shape. This second one was much better, although I was expecting more - but maybe the bottles were not kept conveniently.

Clear garnet without many traces of evolution, this has a classical old wine bouquet, with old cupboards and an earthy, dead leafs feel. Beneath this, there is also a vegetable note - not unusual in Baga, but a surprise after 20-odd years - and a scent of iodine. Still later on, some sweeter notes - like toffee - appear.

Soft in the mouth, as expected, it still reveals a very interesting structure for its age. Notes of old cupboards and dry leaves permeate the taste that finishes in a high note, with a good, still strong ending.

Definitely one to drink right now, but still a nice experience.

Tasted on 2012-01-29

Aliança Garrafeira Particular 1976

15.0 / 20

Producer: Aliança

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

Recently bought at an auction, this was a shot in the dark based only on the assumption that Bairrada wines are supposed to age well.

The maroon, brownish tinged color in the glass was quite inviting and the bouquet followed through, with some balsamic notes, old cupboards, dried plums and some hints of cocoa and chocolate in the background.

Soft bodied, with hints of old leaves, the wine has a balanced acidity. Dried plums and raisins, along with some coffee and cocoa mark the taste that finishes in a medium length finale.

Although it is clearly starting to go downhill, it still is a pleasant, pleasurable wine that will appeal to anyone into old wines.

Tasted on 2011-11-28

Sidónio de Sousa Garrafeira 2005

17.5 / 20

Producer: Dulcinea dos Santos Ferreira

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

This wine represents the last vintage for a centenary Baga vineyard in the Bairrada - it was replanted shortly afterward.

Dark purple, almost pitch black, the nose is deep, strong and complex. Lots of meaty red fruits, some green olives and peppers, a hint of flowers maybe. Really impressive.

Big bodied, very layered in the mouth. Concentrated and full, still showing a crisp, marked acidity and some hard tannins that do not overwhelm the rich notes of red fruit that still shine through. The oak notes here are classical and beautifully balanced, providing just enough toast and smoke but never coming along as the main drivers for the wine. The finish is enormous, astringent and almost chewy.

An inspiring, monumental wine that still has a couple of decades in it.

Tasted on 2011-10-29

Quinta de Baixo Garrafeira 2000

17.0 / 20

Producer: Quinta de Baixo

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

An 11 year old 100% Baga from the Bairrada, this is a great example of what this region and grape type have to offer, as long as you give their wines time to age gracefully.

Intense and complex bouquet, where dried plums mingle with spices, caramel and coffee, some smoke. Later on, some ripe plums also appear.

Very much alive in the palate, with a balanced acidity, yet some noticeable tannins, although tamed, and a really good structure. Perfect balance between fruit and oak, all youth excesses polished and trimmed. Very persistent, with a dry, distinct and deep finale that conjures up some dark plums again.

Great Bairrada by any standards, coming into the ideal drinking window.

Tasted on 2011-10-27

Quinta do Canto Garrafeira 1994

16.0 / 20

Producer: Dores Simões

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

Made from Baga and Tinta Pinheira, this 17 year old bairrada shows a nice clear ruby color with just the slightest touch of brown - very nice for its age.

Composed in the nose, with touches of leather, old cupboards and dry leaves, a balsamic feel in the background and some faint but really nice oak notes that bring to mind chocolate and cocoa.

Elegant and soft in the palate, keeping up with the leather notes, it still shows some life, with a balanced acidity that keeps the taste interesting.

Average persistence, with a nice ending that still manages to show some astringency and black pepper notes.

Really interesting if you are into older wines and a good starting point if you wish to explore them.

A bit overshadowed when paired with an african dish involving chicken and coconut milk, even though spices were very mild, it then paired really well with soya meatballs in a tomato sauce.

Tasted on 2011-08-09

Diga? 2008

15.5 / 20

Producer: Campolargo

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

A 100% Viognier from the Bairrada - from a producer worth knowing - this has a bright yellow, almost golden color. Aromas show sweet yellow fruits - apricots, pears and peaches - along with a buttery feel from the oak and, in the background, a hint of flowers and some vegetable notes. A quite intense bouquet.

Low in acidity to the taste, showing some fruit jam and some vegetable notes, it has some structure and weight - given by the oak, and finishes dry, leaving a vegetable aftertaste. But yet, it feels a bit short, not living up to the promisses made by the bouquet. Maybe it has passed its prime? Or have I failed to fully understand it?

Tasted on 2011-07-05

Grande Follies 2007

17.5 / 20

Producer: Aveleda

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

The north of Portugal is, in my opinion, the source for the best white wines in Portugal. Happily, they have been getting better year after year. The Bairrada region, already home to some really good white wines, has gained a new worthy addition. This is the new top brand from Aveleda for Bairrada and it certainly made its point.

Pale golden in color, the bouquet is impressive. Boiled pear and apricots stand side by side with almonds and hazelnuts.The fact that the wine aged in oak is apparent from the aromas, but it is masterly balanced by a freshness that easily makes us forget that this is the 2007 vintage.

Round and full to the taste, structured yet with a freshness that stops it from becoming too heavy, yellow fruits and oak notes combine to give us an amazingly elegant and balanced taste, that finishes leaving a long aftertaste.

Great debut. Production was rather small, so hurry up if you want to taste this - and believe me, you want to taste this.

Tasted on 2011-03-15

Follies Touriga Nacional e Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

15.0 / 20

Producer: Aveleda

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with Touriga Nacional (probably the most famous and worthwhile portuguese grape) this red wine from the Bairrada is an honest, straightforward wine.

In the nose, the first impact is definitely dominated by the violet, flowery notes from Touriga Nacional. As the wine opens up in the glass, the vegetable, greener notes from the Cabernet appear and blend with the flowers. Some spices and red berries compose the bouquet's background.

Vegetable and peppery are the main adjectives regarding the taste. A high acidity - maybe a bit too high for the slim body it has. Finish is average length, showing some chocolate/cocoa notes mixed with some spices.

Overall, a well made wine that would benefit from some more complexity and structure, in my humble opinion.

Tasted on 2010-09-10

Encontro 1 2008

17.5 / 20

Producer: Dão Sul

Region: Bairrada

Country: Portugal

Hailing from the Bairrada region, this straw coloured white wine starts by filling the nose with toasted, vanilla notes reminiscent of its stage in oak. Some tropical fruit and citrus notes are beautifully integrated with these, resulting in a elegant, sophisticated aroma. In the mouth, it keeps showing off its elegance, with a creamy texture balanced by a great acidity ending with a long, persistent finish. A really good white from the Bairrada and probably one of the best white wines in Portugal.

Tasted on 2010-06-13