António Saramago Reserva 2009

16.5 / 20

Producer: António Saramago

Region:Setúbal

Country:Portugal

Very nice and balanced nose, with the usual jammy black fruit note associated with Castelão in Setúbal, that are seasoned here with light balsamic tones, a hint of spices and an oaky background.

Very elegant and alive in the palate, with lively tannins, fresh acidity and some really nice jammy fruit notes. It's a wine with the right intensity, just enough to show off its flavors, but never overpowering - really gastronomical.

The site says the wine is a blend of Castelão, Touruga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet, but I'd totally believe if I was told this is a 100% Castelão. The jammy blackberries that appear on both nose and mouth are a great expression of the Setúbal Castelão.

Adega de Pegões Colheita Seleccionada 2011

15.5 / 20

Producer: Adega de Pegões

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Certainly one of the best valued whites in Portugal, this oak-staged white from near Setúbal has been very consistent in its quality, although I was a bit disappointed with one of the last vintages, since the sweet fruit notes seemed a bit too much.

This vintage showed a better balance, although sweet fruit notes predominate in the nose, along with the slightest impression of oak/toast.

Very pleasant in the palate, full bodied and showing the oak where it staged, sweet fruit notes are also very present, but are balanced by a bitter, lemony aftertaste that keeps the sweetness in check. Strikes a very good balance between this bitterness and the heavier side provided by the oak, it finishes long and persistent.

Still a good bet and one to track down whenever you're in the mood for an affordable, interesting wintery white wine.

Dona Helena 2011

15 / 20

Producer: Adega de Pegões

Region: Setúbal

Country:Portugal

A light (both in structure and in alcohol), simple white from Adega de Pegões, near Setúbal, this shows an intense fruit-forward nose, sometime veering into candy territory but managing to keep interesting. There's also a marked citrus feel - notes of orange blossom at first and later even some lemon skin.

Very soft in the palate, it's a simple wine that has a nice, balanced presence. Lots of fruit here, the same candy notes also appearing - but everything backed and balanced by a fresh citrus acidity and a lemony note that helps it gain some interest. Good, simple finish. A good white for the summer or for before meals.

Fontanário de Pegões 1998

15.5 / 20

Producer: Adega de Pegões

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Saw this at the winery shop in a recent visit and decided to take a chance with an older Setúbal wine, mainly made with Castelão - a recent good surprise with a 1999 red from Adega de Palmela gave strength to the notion that Castelão shows well with age, even in wines not made with that goal.

A lot of leather and old cupboards in the nose at first, it gains some strength and life as it breathes, revealing some dried leaves and, surprisingly, a good deal of jammy black fruits - the kind that I associate with Castelão from this region.

Slim and delicate in the palate, as expected for a 14-year old red, it nevertheless feels very alive, with the same notes of jammy black fruit appearing throughout the taste and making it very interesting.

Does not show its age at all and it still holds its own when matched with food.

Adega de Pegões Colheita Seleccionada 2009

16 / 20

Producer: Adega de Pegões

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Lots of oaky and caramel notes in the nicely tuned, inviting bouquet that also shows some jammy black fruits.

Feels very young in the palate, showing a lot of oak notes, the fruit notes still feeling somewhat "green" and needing some bottle time to mature. The tannins are also very present, although they do not hide any of the opulent, jammy fruit that's here. Good, average length finale.

For my taste, I'd wait another year or two before starting to drink it.

Moscatel Superior 10 Anos Horácio Simões

17 / 20

Producer: Casa Horácio Simões

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Superior is a suffix guaranteeing the quality for this Moscatel from Setúbal (like Reserva on table wines). This 10 year old certainly deserves it, as it is a delightful and powerful Moscatel.

Sweet aromas, a bit of candles, english cake, exotic woods and dry figs compose an intense, powerful but elegant bouquet.

Shows its sweetness in the palate, but it's never excessive. There's a good acidity here, giving it some backbone and supporting the figs and the raisins that appear here. There appear to be some tannins lurking around as well - at least it feels like it i the gums.

Really long finish, very persistent with notes of crystalized orange skins. Still very young, this will age and last for years.

Herdade de Myrtus Reserva 2007

16 / 20

Producer:Jorge Manuel Matos Francisco

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

A blend including Touriga Nacional, this is apparent in the nose from the start with notes of violets and other flowers coming to the foreground. Later, leather and resin appear and, beneath it all, some discreet but well balanced fruit.

Very alive, intense in the palate with notes of sweet red berries, along with a flowery feel - the Touriga again. Oak and caramel complete the taste in a medium structured body with nice, velvety tannins and a good length.

Not a very classical Setúbal, but a worthy wine and a very good buy at 5€.

Cova da Ursa 2010

16.5 / 20

Producer: Bacalhôa

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Probably the most classical (and old) Chardonnay made in Portugal, this is one of those wines you know won't disappoint. From the yellow, light golden color continuing to those classical Chardonnay aromas - quince, boiled apples and pears, the oaky and buttery background and a hint of guavas, this is a composed and nicely tuned Chardonnay.

Expectedly full in the palate, but, again, finely tuned and balanced by a good deal of citrus-like dryness and a fresh acidity, it's a structured, deep and long lived wine that will shine in colder weather.

Bacalhôa Moscatel Roxo 2000

17.0 / 20

Producer: Bacalhôa

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

From one of the major wine producers in Setúbal (and Portugal, I guess), this Moscatel Roxo is a great example of these fortified wines. Light amber, the nose is intense and rich but never being excessive. I was reminded of an aged Madeira on first impact, with the same crystalized lemon rind, exotic woods, dried fruits and smoky feel. Later on, there are also a good deal of more flowery notes (orange blossom) popping up.

In the palate, this shows a masterful balance between the sweetness brought by the more honeyed notes and the acidity that is brought by the crystalized lemon and orange rind. Structured and full-bodied as expected, but able to keep the taste lively and fresh, finishing in a lengthy fashion.

Tasted on 2012-08-25

Parus 2010

15.5 / 20

Producer: Herdade da Comporta

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

100% Antão Vaz coming from Herdade da Comporta, this straw-yellow white has a nose dominated by apricots and peaches at first, that are later replaced by some sweeter, more expressive tropical fruits.

Soft in the palate, with a balanced acidity and a fruit-forward approach, with white and tropical fruits to the foreground, along with a background drier citrus feel. Feeling restrained at first, some time in the glass seem to do it good, becoming more open and expressive. Good, lengthy finale that is perhaps too marked by alcohol. At 14%, sometimes the alcohol comes a bit too much to the foreground.

Tasted on 2012-08-08

Venâncio da Costa Lima Reserva 2009

16.0 / 20

Producer: Venâncio da Costa Lima

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Yet another good example of a 100% Castelão from Setúbal, This reserve from one of the oldest companies in the region presents itself in a nice, dark ruby color and a very typical Castelão nose, mainly dark fruits, meaty and sweet, sometimes going into jam territory but never going overboard. To the background, a touch of oak and vanilla composes the bouquet.

Fruit forward in the palate, in the usual Castelão way with lots of dark plums, this is an average bodied wine with well balanced acidity and some nice, dry and still powerful tannins.

Good, pleasant presence in a really typical example of the Castelão from this area. Finishes decently long bringing out an oaky, cocoa aftertaste.

Tasted on 2012-08-06

Vinha Val dos Alhos 2010

15.0 / 20

Producer: Casa Agrícola Horácio Simões

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

A 100% Sémillon, this white wine from near Setúbal has a balanced, somewhat subdued bouquet where flowers mingle with white fruits along with a scent of lemon.

Shows a good structure on the palate, but the most remarkable sensation in the palate is its dryness which, combined with a fresh acidity, brings out the citrus, lemon-like notes. Some notes of white fruit and a touch of oak also appear in the background all the way to the medium-length, very dry finale.

Tasted on 2012-07-21

FSF 2001

17.0 / 20

Producer: José Maria da Fonseca

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Lovely lively garnet color on this red from Setúbal, the nose is very intense, with notes of vanilla and other spices, some red berries jam and, after some time, a touch of leather hinting at its age.

On first impact on the mouth, it shows its age, dominated by pleasant leathery notes along with strong vanilla and cocoa flavors. As it opens, some red fruit also appears in a very composed, balanced body that still shows a good deal of acidity and some very nicely tuned tannins. Very long persistence leaving notes of red fruit jam and cocoa all over the palate.

I tasted the 2004 a year or so ago and felt the wine still had a lot to offer. I think the 2001 confirms that. It's in a great drinking window and It will definitely hold for a couple of years more.

Tasted on 2012-07-12

Moscatel Reserva Venâncio Costa Lima 2007

15.5 / 20

Producer: Venâncio da Costa Lima

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Lightly colored, a clear amber, this Moscatel from Setúbal has a nice, simple bouquet with dried figs and raisins making up for most of it, although there's a slight medicinal note on the background.

As expected, sweet on the palate, with a lot of honeyed notes, this is not a very heavy, structured Moscatel. Average body and a nice, inviting presence makes it an approachable, easy drinking sweet wine. Has a very nice, long ending.

Tasted on 2012-07-11

JP Private Selection 2009

14.5 / 20

Producer: Bacalhôa

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

A 100% Castelão from Setúbal, this red from Bacalhôa has a not very expressive bouquet where notes of red fruits are a bit overshadowed by a strong smoky overtone at first, becoming somewhat more balanced afterwards. There's also a hint of vegetable notes - green bell peppers - that are unusual in Castelão.

It feels a bit rustic on the first impact on the palate, with the jammy red fruit coming forward, but sharing the front stage with some rustic cellar notes.

Lightly structured, tannins are still on the hard side which, together with the high acidity, might make the wine a little less inviting. Still, there's some nice red fruit in here, that make the average-length finale hold up.

Tasted on 2012-07-06

Herdade da Comporta 2010

15.5 / 20

Producer: Herdade da Comporta

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Pale yellow to the eye, the nose on this white from near Alcácer do Sal is very tropical, but just with the right touch of sweetness to it, balanced with some citrus overtones.

Very refreshing in the mouth with good citrus-like acidity, it's a balanced, very composed white with just the right amount of tropical fruit in the palate to keep it inviting. Finish is medium long with lots of citrus notes, cleansing and refreshing.

Tasted on 2012-07-02

Herdade da Comporta 2008

15.5 / 20

Producer: Herdade da Comporta

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Dark ruby, this shows quite a closed profile on the nose when poured. Some red fruit, a hint of toast and vanilla, but all very much to the background. It gains momentum with time and those hints start to bloom into notes of red berries jam, nicely scented vanilla and also some darker, blue fruits.

Also very closed in the palate at first, it shows some sweet juicy red berries, nicely balanced with the oak notes. If at start the tannins seem to be too tamed, they actually build up as time goes on, finishing in an imposing fashion, although they never overpower the flavors. As a whole, elegant and balanced although it takes some time to fully reveal itself.

Tasted on 2012-06-28

Moscatel Roxo Sagres 2009

16.0 / 20

Producer: SIVIPA

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Sagres, a well known portuguese Navy school ship, SIVIPA has decided to release a special bottling of their 2009 Moscatel Roxo.

Nice orange color, with slight red overtones, the nose is pretty intense, showing a lot of sweetness, with a lot of figs and plums thrown in there, along with a considerable ammount of honey. A bit later on, a touch of orange skin and flower joins the bouquet, its inherent acidity enhancing the nose.

Quite full bodied in the palate, showing a lot of honey like sweetness, but with a nice touch of what seemed like mint. Interesting finale, not very long but showing a surprising acidity that is not much to the front throughout the rest of the taste, and leaving a honey aftertaste that lingers for a while. There's some structure hidden behind the fullness granted by the sweeter side of this as the ending also shows a pack of pretty hard and lively tannins that stick to your gums.

Tasted on 2012-06-16

Vinha Val dos Alhos 2009

15.5 / 20

Producer: Casa Agrícola Horácio Simões

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Dark ruby to te eye, the nose on this 100% Castelão from near Palmela shows some intense and sweet dark and red fruits notes, in a very classical Castelão nose.

Feeling very young in the mouth, with some hard - although manageable - tannins and a fresh feel to it, this keeps the classical, fresh Castelão fruit in the palate all the way to the medium-length finale where a marked vegetable, greenish note - think bell peppers - appears which is not very usual for Castelão, although not unpleasant by all means.

This wine tends to grow and develop a bit more complexity given time in the glass, so decant it an hour or so before drinking it. Or wait a couple of years before opening the bottle.

Tasted on 2012-05-27

Lobo Roxo 2008

16.0 / 20

Producer: Casa Agrícola Assis Lobo

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

This moscatel roxo from Setúbal comes in an unique and curious packaging, in the same vein as the other bottlings from this producer.

Orange colored, the nose is pretty intense, showing some dried flowers, cedar oil, dried figs and raisins, a touch of honey and a good amount of dried and crystalized oranges.

Feels very structured in the palate, unctuous and sweet but balanced with some more acid and fresh notes. Intense and long finish with honey notes but where the alcohol tends so play up a bit, detracting from the balance and equilibrium this could achieve.

Yet, serve it a little chilled so the slightly high alcohol is not as noticeable and this will be a really nice desert wine or a great company for an after dinner cigar.

Tasted on 2012-05-19