Muros de Melgaço Alvarinho 2011

17 / 20

Producer: Anselmo Mendes Vinhos

Region:Minho

Country:Portugal

Very subtle bouquet, with a strong mineral side, along with some lovely flowery impressions and a drop of an herbaceous, more vegetable note. In the nose, the overall feel is one of austerity and balance.

Impressive in the mouth, feeling very soft at first but quickly building up to a full, long and persistent wine. It's fresh but the acidity is very controlled, there are some more fruit notes than in the nose, but the main drive is the mineral, wet stones side. The oak has been masterfully used here, almost not apparent in the bouquet or in the flavors but giving a great deal of complexity to the wine.

Really good Alvarinho and a great buy at under 20€.

Gnarly Head Chardonnay 2009

16 / 20

Producer: Gnarly Head

Region:California

Country: USA

A californian Chardonnay showing a subtle, discreet bouquet where boiled apples and pears mingle with some honeyed notes and a subtle touch of oak.

Shows its weight on the palate, feeling unctuous but this is very well supported by a nice acidity and a orange-skin bitterness that is refreshing. It's a pleasant, not very complex white, very balanced (the 14% alcohol are not noticeable) that ends very pleasantly.

Luís Pato Vinha Formal 2008

17 / 20

Producer: Luís Pato

Region:Bairrada

Country:Portugal

100% Bical and staged 9 months in oak, this older white - 5 years - is a reminder that the Bairrada is a prime terroir for whites in Portugal.

The nose expresses the wine's age, with dried fruits appearing, along with a glyceric note. But given time, some sweet white fruit also appears and gives it some grace.

In the palate, the wine is a revelation. Although you can definitely tell it's an older white - although the evolution here is very positive - it comes along as imposing. Very structured and deep, austere and precise, the heavier glyceric notes are matched by an impressive dryness. The set results in a remarkable wine that will probably take on some more cellaring.

Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas 2011

17 / 20

Producer: Quinta do Soalheiro

Region:Minho

Country:Portugal

From one of the best - to my view - Alvarinho producers in Minho (and Portugal), this wine is made from the oldest vines in their farm and is a close match to their Reserva - maybe just lacks some of the aging potential the Reserva has, but still great value for the price.

Orange blossom and a slight tropical feel in the nose, complemented by a strong mineral background and some vegetable bitterness - extremely elegant and inviting.

Nicely structured in the palate, intense and long, it shows a very good acidity, with gentle tropical notes mingled with stronger citrus and mineral notes. Finishes very long with the citrus notes to the foreground. Really good balance between structure and freshness results in a very rewarding wine.

Framingham Sauvignon Blanc 2011

16.5 / 20

Producer: Framingham

Region: Marlborough

Country: New Zealand

As usual for the whites from this brand, a lovely, precise New Zealand white.

Very expressive in the nose, showing passion fruit and pineapples without excesses. Very focused, very pure fruit notes that are combined with the greener, more vegetable feel - aspargus and green grass.

The vegetable side seems to take more proeminence in the palate, giving the wine a pleasurable bitterness that goes very well with the tropical fruit background. Intense, with a very good acidity, finishes long and pleasurable.

Riesling Vogelthen 2011

16 / 20

Producer: Soellner

Region:Wagram

Country:Austria

A dry riesling from Austria, this white shows some subtle tropical fruit notes in the nose, along with delicate mineral notes.

In the mouth, these impressions are inverted, with the mineral side of the wine coming more to the foreground, along with a marked citrus, lemony side. Feels very elegant and lively, helped by a slightly bubbly feel.

Adega de Pegões Colheita Seleccionada 2011

15.5 / 20

Producer: Adega de Pegões

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Certainly one of the best valued whites in Portugal, this oak-staged white from near Setúbal has been very consistent in its quality, although I was a bit disappointed with one of the last vintages, since the sweet fruit notes seemed a bit too much.

This vintage showed a better balance, although sweet fruit notes predominate in the nose, along with the slightest impression of oak/toast.

Very pleasant in the palate, full bodied and showing the oak where it staged, sweet fruit notes are also very present, but are balanced by a bitter, lemony aftertaste that keeps the sweetness in check. Strikes a very good balance between this bitterness and the heavier side provided by the oak, it finishes long and persistent.

Still a good bet and one to track down whenever you're in the mood for an affordable, interesting wintery white wine.

Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay-Pinot Noir 2010

16 / 20

Producer: Boschendal

Region: Boschendal

Country:South Africa

An interesting blend for a still white, the first impressions on this South African white instantly take us into Champagne territory, with a lot of toast notes combined with some boiled apples and pears. Also present is an interesting mineral side and some spices impressions which gives it an edge.

Good, enticing palate that combines a good, elegant and fresh acidity with an heavier structure resulting in a very interesting and original white. It's probably worth cellaring for a couple of years as well.

Tapada de Coelheiros Chardonnay 2009

16.5 / 20

Producer: Herdade de Coelheiros

Region: Alentejo

Country: Portugal

I tasted the previous vintage of this wine a couple of years ago and I remember not being particularly impressed. I felt it was a nice wine, but not remarkable - although I can see from the taste note that this wasn't a typical heavy, oaky and buttery chardonnay.

This vintage seems to be a notch up - the wine style brings to mind the drier Chardonnays from Bourgogne, not Chablis but almost there. Green apples in the nose, some dried almonds and a slight vegetable background, which are later complemented by a mineral, chalky scent.

Very interesting in the palate, with a fresh, crispy acidity and a remarkable dryness, leaving a mineral, chalky feel in the mouth. This is a very elegant wine, with the fruit notes (mainly green apples) mixing with some citrus and the mentioned mineral notes to make a very composed wine that has a lot of structure without relying in the usual oak, buttery excesses.

As it breathes and is exposed to air, this starts to gain some of the heavier Chardonnay notes, boiled apples and pears coming to the front, along with some heavier oak notes - so it loses some of that mineral, chalkier feel and starts feeling like a more new world Chardonnay.

Dona Helena 2011

15 / 20

Producer: Adega de Pegões

Region: Setúbal

Country:Portugal

A light (both in structure and in alcohol), simple white from Adega de Pegões, near Setúbal, this shows an intense fruit-forward nose, sometime veering into candy territory but managing to keep interesting. There's also a marked citrus feel - notes of orange blossom at first and later even some lemon skin.

Very soft in the palate, it's a simple wine that has a nice, balanced presence. Lots of fruit here, the same candy notes also appearing - but everything backed and balanced by a fresh citrus acidity and a lemony note that helps it gain some interest. Good, simple finish. A good white for the summer or for before meals.

Sonnseit´n Roter Veltliner 2011

16 / 20

Producer: Soellner

Region: Wagram

Country: Austria

Roter veltliner is a grape type indigenous to Austria, introduced there during the era of the Roman Empire. Despite the name, it is not related to Gruner Veltliner, apparently.

Subtle, flowery aromas showing some sweet fruit in a backdrop of minerality - wet stones and rubber.

Very fresh in the palate, soft and well balanced between acidity and sweeter fruit, this is a really refreshing white that feels very light by its own but, when matched with food, reveals a very solid structure. Good, palate cleansing ending with a nice persistence.

Marquesa de Alorna 2009

16.5 / 20

Producer: Quinta da Alorna

Region: Tejo

Country: Portugal

Deeply golden in color, making me question if this had oxidized prematurely. Hapilly, the bouquet told me otherwise - although it showed an heavier white, with lots of buttery, vanilla notes, the white fruits (peaches) and boiled apples were also very present and showing very well. Maybe some flowers in the background.

Very structured and heavy in the palate at first, it changes halfway and reveals a drier approach, relying more on citrus than on vanilla and sweet white fruits. It shows a good balance between fruit and oak, being a very well tuned wintery white that finishes long and comforting as expected.

Framingham Classic Riesling 2009

16.5 / 20

Producer: Framingham

Region: Marlborough

Country: New Zealand

Really fragrant bouquet on this New Zealand Riesling, with lots of sweet white fruit and a really nice mineral, wet-stone backbone.

As is the case with the whites from this winery I've tasted so far, it feels very tuned and precise in the palate. A good deal of acidity goes very well with a more austere, mineral side that is, in turn, put in check by some sweeter, white fruit flavors.

Good length, feeling very balanced down to the end of the taste.

Andreza Grande Reserva 2010

16.5 / 20

Producer: Lua Cheia em Vinhas Velhas

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

Essentially fruit forward in the nose, with lots of pineapples and green apples. Very light and fresh, it shows a lot more body in the palate, with the oaky/vanilla notes coming forward and giving it a considerable weight.

A bit unfocused at first, there's a good balance here between the heavier oaky side and a dry, citrus feel. The ending is long and hints at some spices lurking around.

A definite wintery white, that needs to be enjoyed with time - give it some decanting before starting to drink.

Quinta dos Termos Reserva Branco 2010

16 / 20

Producer: Quinta dos Termos

Region:Beira Interior

Country:Portugal

Flowery in the nose at first, showing a slight sulphur scent later replaced by wet stones, light citrus notes and a hint of sweeter fruit.

Dry and acid in the palate, as expected in whites from this region, it's very focused, precise with lots of lemony notes. Feels a bit short at first, disappearing in the back of the mouth, but its length increases as it breathes and oxigenates.

Feels like it needs to grow in the bottle for a year or so, but it should pay back.

Aldeias de Juromenha Verdelho 2011

15 / 20

Producer: Herdade das Aldeias

Region: Alentejo

Country: Portugal

Very clear to the eye, this verdelho from near Elvas starts by reminding me of dried fruits, almonds and nuts, which is kind of surprising since I was expecting a much more fruit-forward wine. There's some tropical fruit in there, but it seems to be hiding in the background.

Soft fruit notes appear as the wine fills the mouth, to be replaced mid-length by some pleasant, bitter, lemony notes. Again, the same notes of almonds and nuts are lurking around, giving this an edge. As it heats up, some shy pineapple starts to appear in the back of the mouth.

Very pleasant by itself, but its light structure doesn't stand up to food, even a lightly seared perch fillet.

Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner Hoher Rain 2011

16.5 / 20

Producer: Geyerhof

Region: Kremstal

Country: Austria

Slightly inexpressive in the nose at first, with maybe some notes of white fruit. As it warms and breathes, a slight mineral feel followed by citrus, acid notes appears. The full bouquet is completed by orange blossom and other flowers.

Surprisingly strong and full in the palate, it has a solid presence. Relying very much on citrus notes, it shows a really interesting bitterness, bringing to mind grapefruits, and the associated dryness. Very original and slightly different from the other Grüner Veltliner I've tasted before, the finish is long and dry.

Paired it with an indian dish and it was a very good match for the spices on the dish.

Trimbach Riesling 2009

16.5 / 20

Producer: Maison Trimbach

Region:Alsace

Country:France

Very lightly coloured, showing a nice straw like hue, this has an expressive, clean nose showing all the usual Riesling notes: A strong mineral, rubbery feeling very well balanced with some sweet tropical fruit underneath.

Although the first impact in the palate is of a sweeter, fruit-forward wine, this very quickly changes halfway and the wine reveals a drier, more acid side that gives it a really focused, edgy taste. Very mineral, austere and showing notes of lemon, the sweeter side only appears from time to time, seasoning its austerity and dryness.

Really good and promises to grow in the bottle.

Cova da Ursa 2010

16.5 / 20

Producer: Bacalhôa

Region: Setúbal

Country: Portugal

Probably the most classical (and old) Chardonnay made in Portugal, this is one of those wines you know won't disappoint. From the yellow, light golden color continuing to those classical Chardonnay aromas - quince, boiled apples and pears, the oaky and buttery background and a hint of guavas, this is a composed and nicely tuned Chardonnay.

Expectedly full in the palate, but, again, finely tuned and balanced by a good deal of citrus-like dryness and a fresh acidity, it's a structured, deep and long lived wine that will shine in colder weather.

Quinta de Cottas Grande Reserva 2010

16.5 / 20

Producer: Quinta de Cottas

Region: Douro

Country: Portugal

I tasted the reserva 2009 a couple of months ago and really liked it, being one of those very dry whites from the Douro that, for my taste, really develop when staged in oak for some months. I'm not sure if this Grande Reserva is a rebranding or a new top brand, but I liked this one even more, I must say, although they seemed to cut down on the dryness for this vintage.

Greenish tinged, the nose is very complex, penetrating and intense. Strong vegetable notes at first - aspargus, mainly - open up way to a sweeter, vanilla-like scent along with dried almonds, the new oak barrels where this staged having left its mark. Still later on, some white fruit and flowers join the party and make for a very enticing bouquet.

The fresh acidity is a worthwhile match for the heavier, sweeter streak brought on by the oak. On the whole, the wine feels very structured and complex in the palate, the oakier notes making it mouth filling while maintaining a good fresh vibe. I think it just lacks maybe a little more elegance to make it ascend to the next level.

Really good, long finish.