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Friday, 8 March 2013

Quinta do Escairo Reserva 2010

16 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Escairo
Region: Trás-os-Montes
Country: Portugal


Another wine from the nearly forgotten wine region Trás-os-Montes in Portugal, this is a very pleasant and well made wine, showing some acid red berries in the nose along with some nice cocoa and coffee overtones.

Feels very elegant in the palate, with a really nice balance between red fruits and oak, round yet lively tannins and a fresh, crisp acidity that does not get in the way of enjoyment.

Lightly structured but showing up really well in the palate, the ending is very persistent. Although it won't probably age that well, it's a very enjoyable wine right now.


Tuesday, 5 March 2013

José de Sousa Mayor 2008

17 / 20
Producer: José Maria da Fonseca
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal


A blend containing 65% of Grand Noir (a bit unusual) from Reguengos de Monsaraz, this is a really good Alentejo red from one of the biggest wine making companies in Portugal. Jammy red and black fruits on the nose, with some oak and vanilla notes. There's also a scent of raisins and dried plums, hinting at a very gracious and poised evolution.


Beautifully balanced in the palate, still showing a lot of youth with a good deal of acidity and some tense, lively tannins. Wild red berries dominate the palate, elegantly mixed with toast notes. Takes a while to open up, but after 20 minutes or so in the glass, it reveals its full breadth, textured and complex.


Really good Alentejo.


Sunday, 3 March 2013

Adega de Pegões Colheita Seleccionada 2011

15.5 / 20
Producer: Adega de Pegões
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal

Certainly one of the best valued whites in Portugal, this oak-staged white from near Setúbal has been very consistent in its quality, although I was a bit disappointed with one of the last vintages, since the sweet fruit notes seemed a bit too much.

This vintage showed a better balance, although sweet fruit notes predominate in the nose, along with the slightest impression of oak/toast.

Very pleasant in the palate, full bodied and showing the oak where it staged, sweet fruit notes are also very present, but are balanced by a bitter, lemony aftertaste that keeps the sweetness in check. Strikes a very good balance between this bitterness and the heavier side provided by the oak, it finishes long and persistent.

Still a good bet and one to track down whenever you're in the mood for an affordable, interesting wintery white wine.


Friday, 1 March 2013

Boschendal 1685 Chardonnay-Pinot Noir 2010

16 / 20
Producer: Boschendal
Region: Boschendal
Country:South Africa



An interesting blend for a still white, the first impressions on this South African white instantly take us into Champagne territory, with a lot of toast notes combined with some boiled apples and pears. Also present is an interesting mineral side and some spices impressions which gives it an edge.


Good, enticing palate that combines a good, elegant and fresh acidity with an heavier structure resulting in a very interesting and original white. It's probably worth cellaring for a couple of years as well.


Monday, 25 February 2013

Aneto Pinot Noir 2010

16 / 20
Producer: Aneto
Region: Douro
Country:Portugal


The nose on this Pinot from the Douro is somewhat unexpected, showing some sweeter and more intense cherries than you'd expect from a Pinot. There's also a slighty peppery, greenish feel and a touch of cellar that goes away with time. More to the background are some vanilla and coffee/cocoa notes.


More restrained in the palate, combining a seemingly slim and delicate struture with a good, marked persistence, it shows red fruit notes (again, maybe a bit sweeter than expected) and some nice cocoa, toast notes that are more present in the average length but imposing finale. Smooth, round tannins make it alreay enjoyable.


Saturday, 23 February 2013

Dom Manuel I 2010

14.5 / 20
Producer: Adega Cooperativa de Pinhel
Region: Beira Interior
Country: Portugal


Fruit forward and exuberant in the nose, feeling very young and showing some subtle oak notes.

Those same oak, vanilla notes are present in the palate, where it shows a light structure that, combined with a marked acidity, results in a fresh, young wine with some wild red berries notes.

It comes along as a relatively well made wine, showing the high acidity typical of the region and some greenish, a bit wild tannins that are also typical in the wines from the Beira Interior.


Thursday, 21 February 2013

J.P.Chenet Cabernet-Syrah 2011

15.5 / 20
Producer: J.P. Chenet
Region:Pays d'Oc
Country:France

Starting out with some notes of green bellpeppers, this later morphs into a very fruit-forward wine, with lots of jammy blackberries appearing in the nose, alongside with some spices.

Very inviting in the palate, a soft, round body with a balanced acidity and soft tannins, the jammy fruit notes are also in the foreground, side by side with a distinct vegetable feel. Correct, medium-length finale.

A very straight-forward, young and slightly sweet wine. Not one to keep for a long time, but pretty enjoyable in its simplicity and youth.


Tuesday, 19 February 2013

Quinta de Arcossó Reserva 2007

16 / 20
Producer: Quinta de Arcossó
Region: Trás-os-Montes
Country: Portugal

The wines from the northmost region in Portugal are relatively unknown, even in Portugal. I can think of one brand coming from there - Valle Pradinhos, although there are some more and I distinctly remember having a really interesting Reserva from one of the Adegas up there a couple of years ago.

This farm is a new enterprise (they started in 2005) and their wines are made by Francisco Montenegro, very well known in the Douro - his Aneto brand is one to check. This particular wine is their reserva (apologies for the back label but for some weird reason the shop where I bought this had not received the front labels yet). The nose is very alive and vibrant, with lots of red wild berries along with toast and coffee. There's no hint of evolution here.

The same youth and vibrancy can be sensed in the mouth, with the wine showing a fresh, vibrant acidity - usual in these regions - in a relatively light weighted body. I was actually expecting greener, spikier tannins but the five years seem to have done their work, taming those tannins down to a round, well behaved and appealing version.

On the whole, I'd say I was expecting a bit more focus in the palate, maybe some more fruit notes, which are in the background here. But it's an interesting wine from an offbeat region, nevertheless.


Thursday, 7 February 2013

Saurus Barrel Fermented Malbec 2008

15.5 / 20
Producer: Bodega Familia Schroeder
Region: Patagonia
Country: Argentina

I had some good expectations about this, since the other wines I've tasted from this producer from Patagonia had been very enjoyable - I really liked their Select Malbec, for instance.

This particular brand of wines is fermented in the oak barrels (as opposed to aging there after fermentation). I think the goal is to produce a more elegant, constrained Malbec, but overall I felt a little disappointed with it.

The nose felt subdued, hidden, hints of sweet red fruit noticeable in the background, uderneath some unfocused toast notes.

Average structure in the mouth, a good deal of acidity but the flavors also feel hidden, without much expression. The tannins here are still very much to the foreground, maybe overshadowing the rest of the taste. Time gives it more grace in the palate, giving it some more presence, backed by juicy, red fruits.


Could probably benefit from some cellaring or a longer decantation.


Sunday, 3 February 2013

Herdade do Esporão Syrah 2008

17 / 20
Producer: Herdade do Esporão
Region:Alentejo
Country:Portugal

Part of this year's reconciliation with Syrahs from Alentejo, supported by a great 2-week vacation there, this varietal from the Herdade do Esporão (great wine tourism spot and a lovey restaurant by the way) is a great example of what this grape type can offer in the Alentejo.

Strongly scented, intense and concentrated blackberries predominate in the nose, with oakier notes, some smoke and a hint of tobacco leaves.

Follows suit in the palate, showing a strong, full body where intense black fruit is balanced by an excelent acidity. The round and velvety tannins add complexity and layers to the wine's structure and presence, resulting in a very fulfilling, delightful taste that ends long and persistent - albeit the alcohol feel is maybe a bit too strong.

It's still a very young and powerful wine, so you can definitely wait for it a couple more years. If not, match with strongly flavored foods - went great with a pot-roast pheasant with apples.


Sunday, 27 January 2013

Tapada de Coelheiros Chardonnay 2009

16.5 / 20
Producer: Herdade de Coelheiros
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal

I tasted the previous vintage of this wine a couple of years ago and I remember not being particularly impressed. I felt it was a nice wine, but not remarkable - although I can see from the taste note that this wasn't a typical heavy, oaky and buttery chardonnay.

This vintage seems to be a notch up - the wine style brings to mind the drier Chardonnays from Bourgogne, not Chablis but almost there. Green apples in the nose, some dried almonds and a slight vegetable background, which are later complemented by a mineral, chalky scent.

Very interesting in the palate, with a fresh, crispy acidity and a remarkable dryness, leaving a mineral, chalky feel in the mouth. This is a very elegant wine, with the fruit notes (mainly green apples) mixing with some citrus and the mentioned mineral notes to make a very composed wine that has a lot of structure without relying in the usual oak, buttery excesses.

As it breathes and is exposed to air, this starts to gain some of the heavier Chardonnay notes, boiled apples and pears coming to the front, along with some heavier oak notes - so it loses some of that mineral, chalkier feel and starts feeling like a more new world Chardonnay.


Saturday, 26 January 2013

Dona Helena 2011

15 / 20
Producer: Adega de Pegões
Region: Setúbal
Country:Portugal



A light (both in structure and in alcohol), simple white from Adega de Pegões, near Setúbal, this shows an intense fruit-forward nose, sometime veering into candy territory but managing to keep interesting. There's also a marked citrus feel - notes of orange blossom at first and later even some lemon skin.


Very soft in the palate, it's a simple wine that has a nice, balanced presence. Lots of fruit here, the same candy notes also appearing - but everything backed and balanced by a fresh citrus acidity and a lemony note that helps it gain some interest. Good, simple finish. A good white for the summer or for before meals.


Thursday, 24 January 2013

Herdade do Peso Reserva 2004

17/ 20
Producer: Herdade do Peso - Sogrape
Region:Alentejo
Country:Portugal


A very elegant wine in the nose, showing nice jammy fruit notes, a minty/eucalyptus feel in the background and some discreet evolution notes, the slighest note of leather creeping up here and there, contributing to a very intriguing bouquet.


Very alive in the palate, with the typical Alentejo jammier fruit notes very well integrated with the oak backed by a still very fresh acidity. Structured but not heavy, velvety, round tannins permeate the taste that finishes long, elegant and very balanced.


It will still live for a couple of years at least, but right now it's an extremely pleasurable, rewarding wine.


Saturday, 19 January 2013

Fontanário de Pegões 1998

15.5 / 20
Producer: Adega de Pegões
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal

Saw this at the winery shop in a recent visit and decided to take a chance with an older Setúbal wine, mainly made with Castelão - a recent good surprise with a 1999 red from Adega de Palmela gave strength to the notion that Castelão shows well with age, even in wines not made with that goal.

A lot of leather and old cupboards in the nose at first, it gains some strength and life as it breathes, revealing some dried leaves and, surprisingly, a good deal of jammy black fruits - the kind that I associate with Castelão from this region.

Slim and delicate in the palate, as expected for a 14-year old red, it nevertheless feels very alive, with the same notes of jammy black fruit appearing throughout the taste and making it very interesting.

Does not show its age at all and it still holds its own when matched with food.


Wednesday, 16 January 2013

Sonnseit´n Roter Veltliner 2011

16 / 20
Producer: Soellner
Region: Wagram
Country: Austria


Roter veltliner is a grape type indigenous to Austria, introduced there during the era of the Roman Empire. Despite the name, it is not related to Gruner Veltliner, apparently.


Subtle, flowery aromas showing some sweet fruit in a backdrop of minerality - wet stones and rubber.


Very fresh in the palate, soft and well balanced between acidity and sweeter fruit, this is a really refreshing white that feels very light by its own but, when matched with food, reveals a very solid structure. Good, palate cleansing ending with a nice persistence.