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Saturday, 19 January 2013

Fontanário de Pegões 1998

15.5 / 20
Producer: Adega de Pegões
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal

Saw this at the winery shop in a recent visit and decided to take a chance with an older Setúbal wine, mainly made with Castelão - a recent good surprise with a 1999 red from Adega de Palmela gave strength to the notion that Castelão shows well with age, even in wines not made with that goal.

A lot of leather and old cupboards in the nose at first, it gains some strength and life as it breathes, revealing some dried leaves and, surprisingly, a good deal of jammy black fruits - the kind that I associate with Castelão from this region.

Slim and delicate in the palate, as expected for a 14-year old red, it nevertheless feels very alive, with the same notes of jammy black fruit appearing throughout the taste and making it very interesting.

Does not show its age at all and it still holds its own when matched with food.

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