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Tuesday, 27 November 2012

Herdade de Myrtus Reserva 2007

16 / 20
Producer:Jorge Manuel Matos Francisco
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal




A blend including Touriga Nacional, this is apparent in the nose from the start with notes of violets and other flowers coming to the foreground. Later, leather and resin appear and, beneath it all, some discreet but well balanced fruit.


Very alive, intense in the palate with notes of sweet red berries, along with a flowery feel - the Touriga again. Oak and caramel complete the taste in a medium structured body with nice, velvety tannins and a good length.


Not a very classical Setúbal, but a worthy wine and a very good buy at 5€.

Saturday, 24 November 2012

Geyerhof Grüner Veltliner Hoher Rain 2011

16.5 / 20
Producer: Geyerhof
Region: Kremstal
Country: Austria



Slightly inexpressive in the nose at first, with maybe some notes of white fruit. As it warms and breathes, a slight mineral feel followed by citrus, acid notes appears. The full bouquet is completed by orange blossom and other flowers.


Surprisingly strong and full in the palate, it has a solid presence. Relying very much on citrus notes, it shows a really interesting bitterness, bringing to mind grapefruits, and the associated dryness. Very original and slightly different from the other Grüner Veltliner I've tasted before, the finish is long and dry.


Paired it with an indian dish and it was a very good match for the spices on the dish.


Thursday, 22 November 2012

Grand'Arte Alicante Bouschet 2009

16 / 20
Producer: DFJ Vinhos
Region: Lisboa
Country: Portugal



The intensity and depth of the color is matched by the power of the bouquet on this Alicante Bouschet from near Lisbon. Sweet, ripe blackberries dominate the nose, backgrounded by an oaky, smoky side.

Intense and concentrated also in the palate, fruit forward but balanced by some nice oak notes - dark chocolate pops up often. A good, fresh acidity keeps the wine interesting, offsetting the sweet fruit and a good, average structure is guaranteed by velvety, tamed tannins. Nice, dry finish wraps this up.


Monday, 19 November 2012

Trimbach Riesling 2009

16.5 / 20
Producer: Maison Trimbach
Region:Alsace
Country:France


Very lightly coloured, showing a nice straw like hue, this has an expressive, clean nose showing all the usual Riesling notes: A strong mineral, rubbery feeling very well balanced with some sweet tropical fruit underneath.

Although the first impact in the palate is of a sweeter, fruit-forward wine, this very quickly changes halfway and the wine reveals a drier, more acid side that gives it a really focused, edgy taste. Very mineral, austere and showing notes of lemon, the sweeter side only appears from time to time, seasoning its austerity and dryness.

Really good and promises to grow in the bottle.


Saturday, 17 November 2012

Niepoort Late Bottled Vintage 2007

15.5 / 20
Producer: Niepoort
Region: Porto
Country: Portugal













Bottled a year ago or earlier this year, this Late Bottled Vintage feels very closed.

The nose feels very subdued and disperse, showing some plums and not much else. Later, much later some almonds and dried fruits also show up, along with chemical paper notes.

More expressive in the palate, but also showing some signs of youth, with dry, hard tannins in the foreground, almost hiding the dense sweet fruit that seems to be underneath.

Surprisingly, while showing a lot of structure and density, the finish is somewhat short.

2007 having been a year for very powerful, intense wines from the Douro, it seems this one needs some time in the bottle to soften and become more approachable.


Right now, it's not a very friendly, inviting wine.


Monday, 12 November 2012

Filoco 2009

16 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Filoco
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal



A true Douro in the nose, with buckroses, resin and wild flowers backed by intense wild fruits and a oaky feel underneath it all.

Feels very young, almost wild in the palate, showing a fresh acidity and a decent amount of dry tannins. It is not a full-bodied wine, although it has some structure in it, but has a nice length, finishing with wild red berries and strong notes of dark chocolate and cocoa.

Overall, a very young wine that will need some time in the bottle to settle down and grow.

Tuesday, 6 November 2012

Cova da Ursa 2010

16.5 / 20
Producer: Bacalhôa
Region: Setúbal
Country: Portugal


Probably the most classical (and old) Chardonnay made in Portugal, this is one of those wines you know won't disappoint. From the yellow, light golden color continuing to those classical Chardonnay aromas - quince, boiled apples and pears, the oaky and buttery background and a hint of guavas, this is a composed and nicely tuned Chardonnay.


Expectedly full in the palate, but, again, finely tuned and balanced by a good deal of citrus-like dryness and a fresh acidity, it's a structured, deep and long lived wine that will shine in colder weather.


Saturday, 3 November 2012

Blog 2009

17.5 / 20
Producer: Tiago Cabaço
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal
















This is the top wine for a young winemaker from Estremoz, Alentejo - and Susana Estéban, of Crasto and Solar dos Lobos fame. I tasted the 07 (or 08) vintage a couple of years ago and was not very impressed, feeling its quality did not match up to its price - something which was inverted in the othe brands, .com and .beb that had a really good quality/price ratio.


Since this 09 gained a lot of attention, being declared the best 2009 Alentejo wine in some places, I decided to try it again. And I'm glad I did!


Deep purple in the glass, it's very intense in the nose. Not a classical Alentejo, but somehow managing to take that classical side and turn it into something modern and vibrant all along. The Alicante Bouschet is front stage at first with olives showing up, a hint of spices and some meaty black fruit. As it breathes, the Syrah joins in, again showing some vibrant black fruit in a sweeter perspective, almost jammy. But always feeling very balanced and poised.


Feels very elegant in the mouth, although it definitely is a very sructured, full bodied wine. The raspberries come more to the foreground in the palate than in the nose, very well backed up by a fresh acidity and a layer of velvety tannins handing out even more structure to the wine. Finish is long and intense.


Paired marveously with a lamb coated with honey and rosemary, a regional recipe from a top restaurant in Estremoz.


Thursday, 1 November 2012

Conde de Vimioso Reserva 2007

17 / 20
Producer: Falua
Region:Tejo
Country:Portugal

A venture by João Portugal Ramos - very well known for his wines in Estremoz, Alentejo - in the Ribatejo, Falua produces Tejo wines mainly for the international market. This wine is, I think, the top brand of the house and it comes along as a serious, intense wine that will age well for some more years.


Dark garnet to the eye, the nose is very intense although not in a fruit-forward way. Instead, it starts off with some more mineral notes - a hint of shale, then some earthy, mushroom and dried leaves notes and finally opens up to caramel, toast mingled with black berries and plums.



Really good structure in the palate, with some great velvety yet hard tannins and a backbone of fresh acidity that lets the cocoa/chocolate and black fruit fully reveal themselves while keeping the whole set austere and deep. Very good structure without becoming too fat or heavy, this is a really good wine, finishing long with notes of cocoa and spices.





Tuesday, 30 October 2012

Quinta de Cottas Grande Reserva 2010

16.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta de Cottas
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal














I tasted the reserva 2009 a couple of months ago and really liked it, being one of those very dry whites from the Douro that, for my taste, really develop when staged in oak for some months. I'm not sure if this Grande Reserva is a rebranding or a new top brand, but I liked this one even more, I must say, although they seemed to cut down on the dryness for this vintage.



Greenish tinged, the nose is very complex, penetrating and intense. Strong vegetable notes at first - aspargus, mainly - open up way to a sweeter, vanilla-like scent along with dried almonds, the new oak barrels where this staged having left its mark. Still later on, some white fruit and flowers join the party and make for a very enticing bouquet.



The fresh acidity is a worthwhile match for the heavier, sweeter streak brought on by the oak. On the whole, the wine feels very structured and complex in the palate, the oakier notes making it mouth filling while maintaining a good fresh vibe. I think it just lacks maybe a little more elegance to make it ascend to the next level.



Really good, long finish.





Sunday, 28 October 2012

Offley Late Bottled Vintage 1997

16.5 / 20
Producer: Offley
Region: Porto
Country: Portugal




This one looks a lot younger than its 15 years. Starting by the color, a really dark purple, and carrying on to the nose, where a lot of black berries are still very present, along with a slight more chemical paper feel and the usual dried plums, raisins and a hint of spices. Very intense and vibrant bouquet.

Good intensity on the palate as well, its good structure showing some distinct layers where sweet black fruits mix with sweeter notes, a touch of syrup but still brought together by a nice lingering acidity. Good, strong and lengthy ending.

A notch up from the 200 LBV I tasted a year or so from the same brand and another piece of evidence in favour of older LBVs.


Saturday, 27 October 2012

Montado 2010

14.5 / 20
Producer: José Maria da Fonseca
Region: Alentejo
Country: Portugal



Clear ruby in the glass, the nose is composed mainly by red fruits and a light cellar/winery scent.



Feels very soft in the palate, with a decent amount of red fruits. Lightly structured, the balanced acidity and light tannins clearly say this is a wine made to be enjoyed young. On first taste, the ending brought out some marked alcohol notes but these are hardly noticeable when paired with food.



One for the everyday meal.





Tuesday, 23 October 2012

Lion's Land Shiraz Pinotage 2008

15.0 / 20
Producer: Lion's Land
Region: Swartland
Country: South Africa







Clear garnet, this is a blend of Shiraz and Pinotage, pinotage being South Africa's signature variety. Apparently, it's a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut. I believe this was the first time I tasted a Pinotage wine and I definitely see the link to Pinot Noir, both in the light color of the wine and in some earthy/smoky scents and flavors that I usually associate with Pinot Noir.


The bouquet brings some dried plums and jam, a bit monotone at first. It becomes a little more interesting as it opens, revealing the afore mentioned earth/smoke notes as well as a spicier, peppery side.


The first taste reveals a light body and a good deal of acidity. Surprisingly, I felt a lot more red fruits here than in the nose. As with the nose, as it opens the palate becomes more revealing and the dried plums and jam in the nose also appear here. Lightly structured and with balanced tannins, both the acidity and the spicier, peppery notes give it some interest. Medium length finish wraps up the taste.



Tasted on 2012-10-20

Quinta do Boição Arinto Reserva 2010

16.0 / 20
Producer: Enoport
Region: Bucelas
Country: Portugal







100% Arinto from Bucelas, this has a nice straw color and a fine bouquet, where notes of ripe citrus fruit mingle with smokier notes, a hint of mineral - rubbery notes like in a Riesling - and, as it warms up, a scent of oak pops up, reminding us this has fermented in oak for

some time.


Dry impact in the mouth, the mineral notes to the foreground along with lemon and lime. In the background, a touch of hazelnuts and a creamier, heavier texture give it some grace and weight.


Feels very fresh but, at the same time, it also shows some weight and structure, which gives it an added interest. Finish is long and dry, the citrus notes again mixed with hazelnuts.


Very interesting and with a good quality/price ratio.



Tasted on 2012-10-18

Bétula 2011

16.5 / 20
Producer: Quinta do Torgal
Region: Douro
Country: Portugal







An equal blend of Sauvignon and Viognier, this white from the Douro has a nice greenish tinge to it and a very delicate, smooth and elegant bouquet where slight tropical fruit notes mingle with sharper citrus impression, orange blossoms and, as it breathes and opens, smooth vegetable notes.


Very smooth in the palate as well, homogeneous and showing a good structure. Some notes of passion fruit appear, along with more herbaceous impressions and a strong mineral backbone. Feeling a bit closed at first, it shows a clear crescendo of intensity as time goes by. Ends very well, dry and with the citrus notes coming to the foreground.


Comparing it with the previous vintages, I think there's a marked evolution towards a more austere approach. Both the oak notes and the tropical fruits were more present in the previous vintages, whereas this one seems to rely even more on the mineral/citrus side. Although I still miss the splendid acidity the 2009 had.



Tasted on 2012-10-14